Aisy Cendré  

Made in the region of Bourgogne, Aisy Cendré was created by the same people who saved the Epoisses cheese from oblivion after World War Two, Fromagerie Berthaut. They discovered that a cheese that buried in ashes had a completely different flavor. Usually, a young Epoisses cheese is sued. The cheese is salted and washed with Marc de Bourgogne. The cheese is then buried in oak ashes for one month. The result is the Aisy Cendré. The center of the Aisy Cendré cheese is white and almost unripe and it quite strong flavor of hazelnut and walnut. Pairs well with Burgundy.

Banon

Banon comes from northern Provence. It is a very old cheese, that is thought to have originated in the Gallo-Roman era. In order to keep the cheese fresh throughout the long winters, the cheese was wrapped in chestnut leaves and tied with raffia or straw. Mostly a goat's milk cheese, it also has a small amount of cow's milk blended into it. The cheese is generously salted and pre-matures for 1 or 2 weeks. It is then washed with a local eau-de-vie (Marc) and wrapped in chestnut leaves. It is creamy with a full, fruity, woody flavor and pairs well with fresh fruits, at it's best after having ripened for a few weeks. Ripening can result in a small amount of edible blue mold under the wrapper. This mold helps to develop the flavor of the cheese. Serve with a sweet dessert wine or a rosé.

Beaufort 

Beaufort, a cow's milk cheese was already known in the time of the Romans and is named after a small rural town in the French Alps. Beaufort cheeses come in three versions, Beaufort, Beaufort d’été (summer Beaufort) and Beaufort d’Alpage (in the Alps mountains). The latest is made with milk from Tarine or Tarentaise cows. They live in the mountains and graze exclusively on natural pastures. It takes about 130 gallons of milk to make a Beaufort of 99 lb. It needs to age between 4 to 6 months or even more, in a mountain cellar that maintains a cool temperature throughout the year. It is richer and creamier than other mountain cheeses such as Gruyere, Comté or Emmental and has a nice scent of milk, butter and honey. The supple paste has a flower and herbs aroma. Like Gruyere, Beaufort melts well and is a very good choice for a cheese fondue or a hot sandwich. Chablis or a Burgundy white pairs well with this cheese.

Bleu d'Auvergne  

Bleu d'Auvergne is produced in the "Massif Central" between Puy-de-Dôme and Cantal.  Although sheep are mostly raised in this region, producers use cow's milk, giving it a creamier taste than Roquefort, which is made with ewe's milk. It was created in 1854 by a producer of Fourme de Roquefort, who after noticing fungus on his bread, tried to mix the same fungus with the cheese. A little bit later, the farmer pierced the cheese so that the air could enter into it and helped the development of the blue mold. Present day producers inoculate with Penicillin Roquefort. Aged a minmum of four weeks, the aroma is quite pungent, the taste is spicy, with flavors of grasses and wild flowers and is best served at room temperature. Perfect in salad dressings, this cheese will hold up well when paired with full bodied, red wines.

Boursin 

Boursin is a triple-cream cheese made with cow's milk, cream and flavored with herbs, garlic or pepper. It does not need any affinage (aging). A rich and creamy cheese, it is full of flavors and is the perfect match with a baguette, though it compliments almost any bread. Boursin adds flavor to many products such as meat, seafood, fruits, vegetables and can used in dishes such as mashed potatoes in place of butter,  in sandwiches, or even in tomato soup instead of sour cream. Usually best with a dry white or even a Beaujolais.

Brie de Meaux

The star of our December 2008's Homage, which can be found in the archives, this cheese is produced in the area of Brie de Meaux, 31 miles east of Paris. An very old and excellent cheese which is said to have been a favorite of  Charlemagne. The Emperor tasted the cheese in the small city of Brie in the year 774. During the French Revolution, Louis XVI's  supposed last wish was for a final taste of Brie. In 1814, the Prince de Talleyrand organized a European tournament during the Congress of Vienna. Brie de Meaux was awarded the first prize and declared "Le Roi des Fromages" ( The King of Cheeses). Of the many types, Brie de Meaux is probably the finest, and most widely known brie. It has a subtle sweetness, delivering a very soft combination of hazelnut and fruit aromas. About 6.60 gallons of pasteurized cow's milk is needed to make one Brie de Meaux cheese. According to tradition, the cheese is cast manually, with the help of a "pelle à brie" (see December archive). The cheese is then salted exclusively with dry salt. It is the perfect foil to champagne.

Brillat-Savarin

The cheese was created in the 1930s by cheesemaker Henri Androuët and is produced all year round, mainly in Normandy. It comes in wheels, 6-7 inches in diameter and approximately 2 inches thick, and is aged for one to two weeks. It is also available as a fresh cheese (non affine) that resembles rich cream cheese. Pairing with red wines is difficult, as any mushroominess or "moldy" taste will bring out the tannins of the wine. Brillat Savarin is also quite salty when ripe, which may also disturb the taste of red wine. It does pair well with Pale Ale and Champagne. Carbonation wipes the fattiness from the palate and malts enhance the creaminess of the cheese.

Brocciu

Brocciu is considered a national food in Corsica, an island off the Cote d'Azur and is derivated from the word "brousse", which means fresh cheese made with goat or ewe's milk. Similar to ricotta in Italy, it is the only AOC cheese made with whey (lactosérum). The whey is first heated to 95F, then the Corsican cheese maker adds goat or ewe's milk and heats the cheese again, this time to 194F. The cheese is then drained and the whey is removed, allowing the proteins to remain in the cheese. It is ready to eat fresh, has a a sweet taste and a strong smell of milk. It is very versatile, used as an ingredient in many soups, vegetable recipes, omelets, and pastries made in Corsica. Also excellent at breakfast with jam or as a dessert, the wine with this cheese would be Beaujolais.

Camembert

Camembert is one of the most famous cheeses in France, although a relatively young cheese (18th century). It is named after the village of Camembert, which is home to a statue of its creator, Marie Harel. In 1855, the cheese was presented to Napoleon. It is said that he enjoyed it very much and from that moment, Camembert became known everywhere by its current name. Made from pasteurized cow's milk, in the first stages of ripening, it is crumbly and soft, becoming creamier over time. An affinage of 21 days is legally required. It  has a delicate salty taste and a truly permium cheese is matured to the heart of the cheese, developing a paste that should be clear yellow in appearance. Best eaten at room temperature, it is famous with baguette bread. It is also excellent served wih fruits or nuts and pairs well with Red Bordeaux or Beaujolais.

Cantal  

Cantal is one of the oldest cheese in France, even before Roquefort and Livarot. Pliny the Elder mentioned Cantal cheese in the 1st Century AD. It is named after the Cantal Mountains in Auvergne, where the cheese comes from. Made from pasteurized cow’s milk, the milk is first heated at 90F, then pressed in order to expel the whey. It is then left for 8 hours as lactic acids develop in the cheese. At this point, it is salted and pressed again, 3 or 4 times. The cheese then rests for at least one month for a young cheese, up to 6 months for a medium cheese and 6 months or more for an old cheese. As the cheese ages its taste intensifies and develops a milky aroma with nutty flavor, pairing well with with  nuts, grapes and or apples. Versatile, it is used in salads, soups, cheese fondue or gratins and should be served with a nice Cotes du Rhone or Beaujolais.

Chabichou du Poitou

Chabichou du Poitou is made in a very limited area in the soils of the threshold of Poitou, south of the Loire valley. It is literally a small pyramid of goat cheese.  Good to eat young (3 weeks), ripe (6 weeks) or more dry (2 months), it has a rich goaty flavor. When mature, the cheese is dense and smooth with a disctinct layer next to the rind. Although sweet and delicate, the taste is slightly acidic and salty at the finish. The best of this cheese is produced fermier (made on farms). Great as a dessert cheese to finish meals, it is better when tasted in the summertime. We suggest a Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé as the wine to go with this cheese.

Chaource

 

Chaource has been made since the early 14th century in the small town of Chaource, in the Champagne region. Similar to Camembert, but with a creamier texture, it is still a traditional cheese. With the distinct aroma of mushrooms and with a rich, fruity and creamy flavor, it is good to eat at any stage of maturation. When young, it has a very smooth textureand as it ages the cheese becomes extremely creamy. When fully matured, it is nutty and a little bit salty. Made in miniature wheels that gives it an elegant appearance, it is the perfect choice for champagne, Sancerre or Chablis.

Chèvre

Pur chèvre" on the label ensures that the cheese is made entirely from goat's milk. Chèvre in French simply means goat. These cheeses come in a variety of sizes and shapes including cones, cylinders, discs, drums, and pyramids. The cheeses are often covered with ash, leaves, herbs or pepper. In the 8th century, the Saracens came to the west of France and left behind the goats and the recipe to make the cheese. When young, it is mild and creamy. When older, the cheese is dry and firm with a slightly sharp and lightly acidic flavor. Store in the refrigerator up to 2 weeks. A fine combination with French bread, avocado, olives or figs, it can also be used in salads, omelets, pizza toppings and souffles. It  pairs well with most wines, but specifically, white wine from Loire such as Sancerre, or if red a Merlot.

Comté 

Another of the cheeses that we covered more in dept in a previous issue. Dating back to the days of  Charlemagne, it is still traditionally made in more than 190 cheese dairies, known as the "fruitières" of the Jura plateau. Cheese makers need the daily production of 30 cows to make one Comté, which can weigh as much as 80 pounds. Morning and evening milks from Montbeliarde and Tachete de L'est cows are mixed. It requires a long maturation period during which the cheese is regularly cleaned and rubbed with salted water. It has an ivory-colored paste, scattered with holes the size of a hazelnuts.  With a complex, nutty and caramelized flavor, it is a great addition to any cheese tray or as an appetizer. It is even sometimes used as fondue cheese. Excellent when paired with Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio or Gavi di Gavi.

Coulommiers

Coulommiers, (pronounced coo-lom-yay) and named after the town of the same name and it is said to be the ancestor of all Brie cheeses. It differs, in that it has a extra-rich and creamy body, a bit nuttier flavor and the crust is thicker. If it is made with raw cow's milk and  eight weeks of affinage are required. If made with rich pasteurized cow's milk, four weeks is enough. Like Brie, this cheese is best when eaten at room temperature. Great as an hors d'oeuvre cheese, it is often served with sliced crusty French bread, apples, pears or fresh berries at the end of the meal. This cheese requires a full bodied wine such as a Bordeaux, Cotes du Rhone or Languedoc.  If white, Sauvignon Blanc is best.

Crottin de Chavignol

Crottin de Chavignol is probably the most famous cheese of the Loire Valley. It has been produced since the 16th century in the village of Chavignol, near Sancerre, also the home of an excellent white wine. It has a natural rind which ranges from pale ivory to almost black. Made exclusively from whole goat's milk, it is molded, where is stays for 12-24 hours. It is then removed from the mold, salted, dried and ripened at least ten days. This is an important cheese on a cheeseboard and can  be eaten at various stages of the maturity process, the older version aquiring a richer, stronger, nutty flavor. This is great with Sauvignon Blanc, or any white that you might prefer.

Epoisses 

The first Epoisses was made by monks in the Abbaye de Citeaux, in the heart of Burgundy. It is a remarkable cheese and follows a  traditional complicated process when it is made because it is one of last cheeses involving milk coagulation, made in France. The milk is derived from cows which have grazed for three months in the meadows of Burgundy. The cheese is first washed with salty water, then kept in a very humid cellar. After one month, it is washed again with a mix of rainwater and Marc de Bourgogne spirit every two or three weeks. With a powerfully rich flavor, which is salty and creamy, combined with its pungent smell, this cheese needs paring a sweet white such as Suaternes from Burgundy, or a nice German Riesling.

Fourme d'Ambert

Legend says that Fourme d'Ambert was already made at the time of the Druids and the Gauls. A cows milk cheese, it is certainly one of the oldest cheeses in France along with Roquefort. It is made in the Monts de Forez of Auvergne. Since 2002, Fourme d'Ambert and Fourme de Montbrison, although almost simlar, have a distinct AOC grade. "Fourme" is the old French word for cheese from the Latin name "forma", and describes its cylindrical shape. Penicillium glaucum bacteria is added to the cheese and then it is placed in a cave for a minimum of 2 months. It is one of the mildest of the bleu cheeses, creamy, with a delicate fruity flavor and mushroom overtones. Wines that pair well are Côtes du Rhône, Saumur Champigny and as a white wine, Sauternes.

Langres 

Langres cheese is made in the high plains of Champagne and can be traced back to the 18th century. The depression at the top of the cheese, called a "fontaine" or "cuvette," is intentional. It is designed to allow the pouring of Champagne or Marc de Champagne into it. Langres cheese makers still use traditional methods to produce this cheese. During the long ripening period, the cheese is put in a very humid cellar. It is then regularly washed with an orange pigment from the Annatto tree. Sometimes, the cheese is also washed with a local Marc de Champagne. In the same familly as Epoisses and Munster, it has a strong smell and a firm pate that melts in the mouth, revealing a complex taste. Although a bit salty, it is a bit milder than Epoisses. Best served with full bodied reds or champagne.

Livarot  

Named after a village in Normandy, Livarot is one of the oldest cheeses in the region. The straps of Livarot are reminiscent of a uniform's stripes, giving the cheese its nickname "The Colonel." It get these "stripe's" from the wrapping of five straps of rush leaves or paper, which prevent the cheese from collapsing during maturation. The artisanal version of this cheese still follows the ancient cheese making method, being washed with salty water and turned regularly. A very strong smelling cheese, with a full spicy flavor gives the cheese a strong personality and it is considered one of the greatest cheeses in the world among some cheese lovers. When serving, let it breath for 10 minutes to allow the flavor to develop. Serve as an appetizer with crusty French bread, or dessert cheese with fruits such as apples, grapes or pears. Excellent with a fifteen year old  red Pomerol, or Pinot Gris, a full-body white wine.

Munster

From Alsace, this is not the same cheese (Muenster) most Americans are familiar with. This cheese comes exclusively from an area spreading between the East of the Vosges in Alsace ,and the West of Lorraine (where the cheese is called Géromé). In the seventh century, Irish monks settled in what is now called Munster Valley, in Alsace. They created "Munster Kaes", their goal being to preserve milk and feed their people. Farmers still use the traditional way to make the cheese, hand rubbing it with a solution of rock, salt and water. This helps the growth of bacteria, gives the cheese a strong flavor and prevents mold from developing. Maturation of farm Munsters initially takes place outside for one week, after which they are transferred into caves and placed next to old Munsters. Every other day, the Munsters are washed and brushed. It has a strong and powerful aroma and in Alsace Lorraine, it is often eaten with baked potatoes and finely chopped onions. This is actually a great beer (a hearty lager or ale) drinking cheese, but if you are a traditionalist, preferring wine with your cheese,  full bodied red wines such as Côte-Rotie or Chateauneuf-du-Pape will do nicely.

Ossau-Iraty 

Ossau, in the valley of Bearn, and Iraty, in the forests of the Pays Basque, combine to make this cheese. It is probably the least known Appelation d'Origine Controlee (A.O.C) cheese. Mainly made from Manech ewes, the cheese is sometimes produced in mountain huts and called Ossau-Iraty Fermier. The cheese needs to mature for at least 90 days to develop its nutty flavor. The pâte is supple and creamy when young, becoming more firm as the cheese ripens. It may have small holes in the pâte and should not stick to the palate. Creamy and buttery in the mouth, with flavors of nuts, fruits and herbs, it is appropriate for serving before or after dinner. In Pays Basque and Bearn, the nickname of this cheese is  "farmer's dessert." Your favorite dry white will do here nicely.

Pont l'Eveque  

Pont l'Eveque is one of the world’s oldest cheeses dating back to the thirteenth century when it was called d'Angelot. The cheese then took the name of the village in Normandy where it is mainly produced. Pont L’Eveque is a small square-shaped cheese of a pale yellow color and with a white-orange rind. It is made on small farms using rich, salty and almost pasteurized cow's milk. The cheese is well known for its delicate bouquet, which is rumored to be reminiscent of the Norman countryside. A very rich, soft cheese, it is know for its creamy and full-bodied flavor. Pinot Nior would be our first choice as a wine to marry with this elite of cheeses.

Reblochon

In the Middle-Ages, farmers in the mountains of Haute Savoie used to pay their taxes with part of their milk production. In order to 'save' on taxes, they did not fully milk their cows. Once the tax officers left, the farmers went back to milk the cows again. The milk they got was much richer and this is the milk that was used to make Reblochon.  It is aged in cellars or caves in the mountains, with the cheese maker turning the cheese every two days and washing it with whey, in order to speed the aging process. It has a creamy, softer-than-Brie texture with a nutty after taste and a strong herbal aroma that is not for the timid. The cheese becomes bitter, however, when overripe. It is excellent melted on baked potatoes and equally good with tartiflette. Your choice of white or a fruity red wine is perfectly adequate here.

Roquefort 

First evidence of Roquefort was discovered in 79 A.D., when Pliny the Elder mentionned its rich aroma. It was the favorite cheese of Charlemagne (Boy, he comes up alot doesn't he? This guy really liked cheese!) Roquefort is made exclusively from the milk of the red Lacaune ewes that graze on the huge plateau of Rouergue, Causses, in the Aveyron. A genuine Roquefort has a red sheep on the label. In 1411 King Charles VI gave rights to the aging of Roquefort to only one village: Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Present day Roquefort cheeses still mature naturally in the same caves of this village for a minimum of 4 months. As of 2003, there are seven Roquefort producers. The largest is "Roquefort Société". "Roquefort Papillon" is also a well-known brand. The five other producers are "Carles", "Fromageries occitannes", "Gabriel Coullet", "Vernières" and "Le Vieux Berger". Roquefort quality comes from the ewe's milk, the processing of the curd, the “penicillium roqueforti” and then the maturation in natural caves. The mold, penicillium roqueforti, was found in the same caves in which the the cheeses are aged. With today's technological  advances, the mold is mostly produced in laboratories to ensure its consistency. The taste is complex, creamy and soft, and it goes very well with nuts and figs. This, like Bleu, is best with sweet wines such as Muscat, Port or Sauternes.

Saint Marcellin

Today, this cheese is made from cow's milk, but in the 13th century it was made exclusively from goat's milk. Produced in the Dauphiné region. east of Lyon, it is generously salted on both faces and needs a long time to mature. Although  very similar to Banon, it does not have the chestnut leaves and it is creamier, with the nutty and fruity flavor being a bit more complex. It can be enjoyed at any time, as a quick lunch, as a starter, or on the cheeseboard. Full bodied reds such as Côtes du Rhône, Chateauneuf du Pape are the choice here.

Saint Nectaire 

This is an extremely old cheese, similar to cheeses made in monasteries. Traditional methods for making this cheese are now only used by the small farms that still produce it. A cow's milk cheese from cows that graze in the mountains of Auvergne, it is heated and coagulated with rennet. The curd is then pressed into the molds by hand. The cheese is then removed, salted and wrapped in cloth. Before the affinage, it recieves a final pressing and is then aged in cellars for a minimum of three weeks. With a nutty and fruity flavor that has a touch of salt and spice, this is best paired with a light and fruity red wine.

Tomme de Savoie 

"Tomme" is a generic term and means a wheel of cheese in French. Tomme is followed by the name of the village or the region where it is made as in "Tomme de Savoie". Made with skim milk, it is quite low in fat content. It is generally made in the summer, after the cows have gazed the mountain grasses. With a beautiful gray-brown rind, it is firm with flavor of nuts and sometimes grass. Works well paired with sausages, fruits, or bread and medium Côtes du Rhône is the red wine choice while a Rriesling would do if choosing white.

Valencay 

Named after a town in central France, Valencay is shaped like a pyramid with the top cut off. Originally, the shape was perfectly pyramidal. But, coming back from a calamitous campaign in Egypt, Napoléon stopped in Valençay. He saw the cheese and with anger, took his sword and chopped off the top. It is still made following the traditional method. When the cheese is firm enough, it is covered with salted charcoal ash, allowing it to keep its flavor for a long time. As it matures in a ventilated cellar at 80% humidity, a natural blue mold covers the cheese. The paste is moist and firm and it has a soft and delicate taste, with nutty flavor. Definately favoring a white wine, Sancerre or Chablis would be the choices here.