The Cheeses of the U.S.: Vermont

In our continuing series Cheeses in the U.S., we bring you the cheeses of Vermont. Cheese lovers have long known of Cabot Creamery, probably the most widely recognized cheese producer from this lush green state, but many would be surprised at the sheer number of small artisan cheesemakers, some making as little as one or two specialty cheeses, that dot the hillsides of the Green Mountains. Vermont is a wonderous state with many attractions such as the Von Trapp Lodge, named for the famed Sound of Music family, who settled here.

Whether visiting its summer beaches to skiing in Stowe, or the beautiful Islands of the Champlain Lake Region, location of  Lipanzan Park, summer  home to the famed Herrmann's Royal Lipizzan Stallions, Vermont has long been the home to artisans, farmers and those seeking wholesome clean living. 

With Elaine having lived in Vermont for over 23 years, she can attest to the commitment to a lifestyle by cheese makers that result in award-winning artisan and farmstead cheeses based upon tradition, dedication and a sense of place. Many are moving toward organic, if they have not already done so and the wholesome living abounds throughout the state.
In the 1800s Vermont farms all had many dairy cows that supplied their own families. In many cases, each brought to market their own butter and cheeses. Milk and cheese was brought to a central location, or co-op, much like in Cheddar, England and the farmers who produce the cheese there. These co-ops did all the processing for the farmers allowing them to be one unified, streamlined organization, not only allowing farmers to preserve milk from spoiling, but also allowing the small farms to extend their seasons. Of the co-ops started 2 centuries ago, only three of the most well known are still producing fine quality Vermont cheeses and keeping up the traditions started by their fore-fathers, Crowley Cheese (1824), Grafton Cheese Company (1892) and Cabot Creamery (1893). The artisanal small farm cheese trade has once again begun boom in Vermont. This months selections are a perfect example of this.

In her book "The Vermont Cheese Book," Ellen Ecker Ogden,WW Norton Publisher, Ellen writes, "Making cheese is a basic formula, but Vermont cheese makers are proving that cheese goes beyond a recipe: it takes nurturing of both the soil and the flock, tribe or herd with a healthy respect for the process of turning raw milk into cheese. Behind every wedge of soft-ripened, gently seasoned, or wheel of naturally aged Vermont cheese is a passionate cheese maker and a farm." This is a book that really brings you up close and personal with Vermont, its cheese and its history and we highly recommend it.

Excerpts taken from The Vermont Cheese Book, Ellen Ecker Ogden,WW Norton Publisher

Artisanal Cheesemakers of Vermont

Willow Hill Farm

Willow Smart creates some of the best cheeses you'll find anywhere. She has set the standard for what American artisan cheeses can be. Certified organic, Willow's cheeses are hand-crafted from sheep milk (East Friesians raised on the farm) and matured in an underground cave. Recommended styles: Alderbrook, Autumn Oak, Fernwood, Summertomme, Vermont Brebis.



Consider Bardwell Farm 
Straddling the rolling hills of Vermont's Champlain Valley and easternmost Washington County, New York, 300-acre Consider Bardwell Farm was the first cheese making co-op in Vermont, founded in 1864 by Consider Stebbins Bardwell. A century later, Angela Miller and Russell Glover, along with cheesemakers Peter Dixon and Chris Gray, are revitalizing the tradition with goats' milk from their herd of Oberhasli goats who enjoy rotational grazing on pesticide-free and fertilizer-free pastures.

Grafton Village Cheese
 Grafton Village Cheese makes cheddar. I mean really, really good cheddar. Aged from 1 to 6 years, Grafton cheddars are full of flavor and much more complex than typical store varieties. Cheddars aged 4 to 6 years have a drier, slightly crumbly texture with strong flavors. If you've never tried real artisan cheddars, Grafton is a good place to start. 

 
 
 
 


Shelburne Farms

Created in 1886, Shelburne Farms is nearly 400 acres of sustainably managed woodlands on the shores of Lake Champlain. Now a national historic landmark and education center, Shelburne Farms raises a herd of 125 purebred Brown Swiss cows that produce the milk for some of the best farmhouse cheddar in America. Available in ages from 6 months to 3 years, longer aged cheeses will be more robust and drier. 

Blythedale Farm

One of the few American cheesemakers that attempt to make French-style soft cheeses like brie and camembert. Tom and Becky Loftus have succeeded in crafting cheeses that are simply amazing. You will be hard pressed to find a better example of camembert outside of France. Varieties include: Vermont Brie, Camembert Vermont, Green Mountain Gruyere, Cookeville Grana, Jersey Blue.

 
Vermont Butter and Cheese Company

Using milk from over 20 family farms, Vermont Butter and Cheese makes both goat and cow dairy products. Varieties include: Chevre, Feta, Creme Fraiche, Mascarpone, Quark, and yes, butter. To my mind, their goat cheese (chevre) is some of the best around (American or French). Creamy, yet firm with a great earthy, slightly sharp flavor, not at all goaty.

 
 

Green Mountain Blue Cheese
The Boucher Family has lived in the New World for nearly 400 years. Today, some of them are making cheese for a living. Their French ancestors would be proud. The Vermont Blue Cheese is truly exceptional with smooth, creamy texture and great depth of flavor. 

 
 
For more about Vermont cheeses, along with a complete list of the artisal cheesemakers of the state, you can visit the Vermont Cheese Council's website here: www.vtcheese.com/cheesemakers.htm

The Cheeses

Blythedale Vermont
Camembert

Cabot Sharp
Vermont Cheddar

Cabot Vintage
Choice Cheddar

Classic Chevre
Creme Fraiche by
Vermont Butter and
Cheese

Fromage Blanc
Grafton Classic
Reserve Cheddar

Grafton Red Wax
One-Year Premium
Cheddar

Grafton Village
Maple Smoked
Cheddar

Jalapeno Cheddar
by Cabot Creamery

Mascarpone
Old School Cheddar
- 5 Year

Quark
Shelburne Farms
Aged Vermont
Cheddar

Vermont Cultured
Butter

Sources

thenibble.com,farmland.org
All the cheeses found in this article are from www.igourmet.com, and we highly recommend them for all your gourmet food needs.

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