Simple.......pure.........perfection.

Written by Elaine Giammetta 

At first glance, it's just another quaint New England brick farmhouse like so many others that dot the Vermont countryside. Originally built by former Vermont Governor Chittenden in 1795, the design is as yankee as you can get. The house faces south, with tree lined railroad tracks that run east-west traversing the property. Columns stand at attention to welcome you as you approach the front door of what feels more like their home than a restaurant.  

Chefs Steve and Lara Atkins have worked very hard at keeping the integrity of this majestic old home. Once you cross the threshold you are greeted by thick hand-hewn beams and slightly sloping hardwood floors, subtle reminders that this was a farmhouse. The simple decor is in keeping with old traditions and the photos that grace the walls depict scenes of life in Vermont throughout the seasons.

Ol' timers will tell you that families would put a candle in each window to welcome visitors. In keeping with this tradition, but with an eye toward bringing the custom into the 21st century, the couple has used clean, polished metal lamps on each window sill.

Four of the five dining rooms all offer views of Camel's Hump Mountain. It is no wonder that they recently garnered a nomination for 2009 James Beard award for Best Chef Northeast. The meal was outstanding, simple and delicious. 

The Meal

 

 

 

Beef Tenderloin Tartare, Russet Potato Chip 

 

 

 

 

 Onion Soup

Red Hen Bread, Thistle Hill Tarentaise

 

 

 

 "Mac & Cheese" 

Orrechiette Pasta, Vermont Cream, Three Cheeses, Herb Bread Crumbs

 

 

  

 

 

Seared Scallops

 Carrot Puree, Herb Butter Sauce, Baby Spinach 

 

 

 

 Misty Knoll Chicken Breast

 Sauteed Spaetzle, Wild Mushrooms and Garlic - Herb Jus

 

 

 

Hazelnut-Crusted Meyer Lemon Cheesecake

 Blood Oranges, Vanilla Cream

 

 

 

 

Mini Chocolate Pudding

Vanilla Cream 

 

 

 

1840 West Main Street
Richmond, VT 05477
Telephone: 802.434.8686 

 Centrally located between Burlington and Montpelier, it is easily accessible by Vermont's major interstate (I-89), from New York, Boston or Montreal.

Mise en Place

Mise en Place began in 1986 as a small catering company that relied heavily on owners Maryann Ferenc and Marty Blitz’s restaurant and catering backgrounds to succeed. Today, Mise en Place has evolved into a Tampa landmark. Known for its cutting edge food and wonderfully warm environment, it has been Tampa’s gathering spot for two decades. The team has created meals for many events, including Taste of the NFL.

In 2001, Mise En Place was rated #1 for food in the Central Florida/Gulf Coast Restaurant's edition of the New York-based Zagat Survey and they also shared top spot in the New American category for food. The restaurant boasts ten consecutive Golden Spoon Awards from Florida Trend Magazine. Along the way, the James Beard House in New York City named Blitz a Rising Star and he was invited to participate in the First Annual New World Cuisine Festival. Named as part of a select number of chefs and wine professionals at the 1994 Cakebread Cellars’ American Harvest Workshop, Chef Blitz is also a member of the Florida Culinary Cuisine Council, an organization established to “preserve, protect, enhance and expand” Florida’s regional culinary style.

The decor is warm and elegant with dark wood, shades of gold and earth colors permeating the space. The cuisine is fresh and innovative, presented with an elegance and artistry that we would describe as 'fine dining with a satisfying comfort food feel.' It is no wonder that Mise en Place, along with its chef, have garnered the acclaim and loyalty it has. If you find yourself in Tampa this restaurant is a must.

Look for our interview with Chef/Owner, Marty Blitz in this month's Chef to Chef, as well as his on camera interview in this month's On the Red Carpet from Taste of the NFL, 2009.

~Our Meal~

 

 

 ~Foie Gras Root Vegetable

Fuille de Bricke, Grain Mustard, sprinkled with dehydrated Foie Gras

 

 

 

 

~Ceviche

Purple Potatoes, Serrano Chilies, Peruvian Corn, Cilantro, Manchego Arepa 

 

 

 

  ~Roast Lobster

Roasted Butternut Squash, Pancetta Salade, Pinenuts, Cider Maple Vinaigrette, Shaved Grana Padana, Micro Italian Greens

 

 

 

~Five Spiced Foie Gras

Duck-Chanterelle Mushroom Dumpling, Roast Pineapple Vinaigrette, Mango-Daikon Kim Chee, Mircro Shiso 

 

 

 

 

 ~Arbol-Chile-Cumin Rubbed Grilled Shrimp

Sweet Potato- Black Eyed Pea- Andouille Ragout, Vidalia Onion Chow Chow, Carolina Barbeque Glaze

  

 

 

 

~Chick Pea Flour Crusted Wianno Oysters

Preserved Lemon Cucumber Relish, Harissa Aioli 

 

 

 

 

 ~Roasted Tomato-Serrano Ham Bisque

Olive Tapanade, Focaccia Croutons

 

 

 

 

 

~Roasted Duck

Masala-Sweet Potato-Cauliflower-Pea Fricassee, Spicy Peanut Slaw, Split Pea-Spinach Samosa, Pomegranate-Cardamom- Mustard Seed Gastrique 

 

 

 

 

  ~Tangerine Mojo Grilled Scottish Salmon

Crab Chipotle, Manchego Risotto, Oyster Mushroom Haricovert, Pinon Chayote Saute, Smoked Tomatillo-Pumpkin Seed Mole

 

 

 

 

~Banana Napoleon

Hazlenut Filo 

 

 

 

~Raspberry Truffle Cake

Berry Cabernet Sauce, Pistachio Chocolate Ice Cream

 

 

 

 

~

442 West Kennedy Blvd.
Tampa, FL

Lunch: Tuesday through Friday 11:30 am - 2:30 pm
Dinner: Tuesday through Thursday 5:30 pm – 10:00 pm, Friday & Saturday 5:30 pm – 11:00 pm; Bar: Tuesday through Saturday Opens at 5:00 pm

www.miseonline.com

M Waterfront Grille, Naples , Florida

"Cutting Edge Continental Cuisine comes to Naples"

By Louis S. Luzzo, Sr. & Elaine Giammetta

In a year that has seen the economy plunge to record lows, and, with so many eateries going out of business as diners become more particular with regard to where they might spend their "eating out' budget, some would say that to open a new restaurant might be a bit foolhardy. So, it stands to reason that completely revamping and relaunching what was a well known commodity would be down right financial suicide.

In order to make a move like that work, you would have to hit all the marks precisely without missing a one. Create a perfect menu that diners will get behind, serve that food impeccably, not only in style, but especially with regard to taste, offering a new atmosphere that makes patrons comfortable. You would also have to overcome the reluctance of the existing customers, while simultaneously attracting the new patrons as well. A tall order indeed.

But that is exactly what Chris and Peter Sereno, brothers and owners of Naples' staple 'Maxwells on the Bay,'did, reinventing the restaurant into M Waterfront Grille. Their establishment has become a destination spot for the very demanding and particular crowd that make up the Naples market.

 The key thing they did right was to go out and recruit a top notch chef. In September, Chef Brian Roland left the now (Dec. 2008) closed Cru, in Ft. Myers, to take on the challenge of creating a completely new menu and assist in bringing this dining icon into the forefront of elegant cuisine in Naples, and we believe he has more than risen to the task.

Our meal at M ranks very high on our "must" list if you are dining in Southwest Florida. The decor is warm and wonderful, the music, smooth and classic jazz. The bay views are quite beautiful. and you can dine in the lounge, dining room, outdoor room or al fresco. The restaurant also boasts an excellent wine list and well stocked tea chest.

 

 

Seared Sea Scallop & Grilled Tenderloin

Herb Bouquet , Tarragon Tomatoes and Heirloom Beet Salad  

 

    

 

  Grilled Asparagus with Tossed Spinach and Arugala Salad

Shaved Serano Ham, Pecorino Pepato, Truffle Salt, Fried Gorgonzola with Honey Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette 

     

 

The M Wedge

Iceberg & Bibb Lettuce, Grape Tomatoes, Shaved Red Onion, Apple Smoked Bacon & Scallions with Buttermilk - Crumpled Bleu Cheese Dressing

 

 

 Not Your Traditional Escargot

Wild Mushrooms, Wilted Spinach, Boursin Creme, served atop a Butter - Garlic Brushed French Baguette

 

 

 

Heirloom Beets with Fried Goat Cheese

Frisee, Pistachio Vinaigrette, Blood Orange, Lemon Creme Fraiche

 

 

Classic Braised Pork Tenderloin and Shrimp 'M'

Braised Pork Tenderloin and Sauteed Shrimp, Manchego 'Smashed' Potatoes with a Roasted Garlic - Marsala Wine Sauce

 

 

 

House Made Tagliatelle Pomadori

Fresh Tomato, 'Waterside' Basil, Shaved Parmigiano Reggiano

 

 

 

Lobster Thermador

 Three Cheese Bechemel, 'Waterside' Herbs and Panko Crumb Stuffing

 

 

  

 Orange-Miso Glazed Sea Bass

Goat Cheese Dumplings, Apple Smoked Bacon, Baby Brocollini and Florida Orange Broth

 

 

 

 Fruit & Cream 

Selection of Fresh Fruit with Creme Chantilly and Fresh Mint Paint

  

 

 

Milk Chocolate Lava Cake 

Pistachio Tuile, Strawberry Tartar, Dark  & White Chocolate Ganache

 

 

 

 

Spicy Almond Brittle 

 

  

This restaurant is worth driving to, no matter how long the ride may be. M is on its way to becoming one of the top, fine dining eateries in all of Southwest Florida.

M WATERFRONT GRILLE

Lunch 11:30-2:30PM   Dinner 5-10PM   Sunday Brunch 10-3PM   Lounge Menu Available 2:30PM-11:30PM
Valet Parking ~ Live Music in the Lounge - Thursday-Saturday 8-11PM

 

 4300 Gulf Shore Blvd. N 

 Naples, FL 34103 

(239) 263-4421 

restaurant BT , Tampa, FL

We were forewarned. Our friends and acquaintences whispered, "She is one of the top three chefs in Tampa." Top three? Really? 

Really. This was an unbelievable night as this avant-garde chef, B.T. Nguyen-Batley 'walked' us through her interpretation of Vietnamese-French cuisine and literally bowled us over with sights, service, flavors and textures. 

 

Combined with a truly knowledgable and classy staff and her unobtrusive presence in the dining room, this was an experience that has had us talking for days and will surely have us returning here again and again. 

 

 

Located in quaint and interesting Old Hyde Park Village, BT's is situated at the tip of what is known as the V walk. Clean lines outside with just a hint of her Vietnamese influence greet you as you approach the restaurant.

 

Once inside, clean lines continue and elegant simplicity is the focus of a decor that is at once inviting yet chic. 'Zen like' is a phrase that has been used to describe what BT is doing here with her decor and we would have to agree.

She designs all the flower arrangements herself, the use of orchid and chive inside a simple glass votive, showing just how creative this chef really is. In addition, she grows her own mints and everything in the restaurant is as organic as possible.We chose a banquette in the very rear of the restaurant on what, surprisingly, was a busy Monday night. While the restaurant was three quarters full, the placement of the tables, and the meticulous attention to spacing, had us feeling as if were were quite separated, yet part of the larger dining experience. Our evening was made all the more special by the impeccable service of Indra. 

 

 

    BT has had three other restaurants, Yellow Door, lunches at Noodle Lounge and Cafe B.T, all of which seemed to have honed this non-classically trained chef's abilities into the pure perfection of presentation and taste that she delivers from her kitchen. As we have done in the past, our favorite thing to do when experienceing a chef of this caliber for the first time, is to set the menu aside and let the chef take us where he or she will. On this night we did the same. Interestingly, while most chefs and their menus speak of a 'flight', BT took us on what she calls a 'chef's walk'. Just another prime example that this talented young lady is thinking and approaching life with her own inimitable style and vision. One visit to her absolutely fabulous website, will convince you of that immediately.

We believe that this chef's star is rising and great things are on the horizon for her. Having dined in some of the top restaurants in the country, captained by some of the most talented, acclaimed and well known chefs cooking today, we can easily say that BT is among these elite.  We hope you enjoy our pictorial presentation of our culinary walk through restaurant BT.  

1st Course

Wild Boar Ravioli, stuffed with taro root, jicama and glass noodles, served in a beef consomme with opal basil and scallions.

  

2nd Course

Trio of: Tuna Tai Chanh, tuna sashimi, ginger chili, fresh herbs sesame and shallot,  Bo Tai Chanh, tartare of filet mignon, ginger, garlic, chili, basil, cilantro, peanuts and shallots and Chili Chicken Salad, chili, ginger, garlic, basil, cilantro, sesame and roasted peanuts. 

 

 

 

3rd Course

Crepe Pouch of Escargot in a creamy garlic, butter, white wine and chive sauce.  

 

 

 

4th Course

Trio of salad consisiting of : Tomato & Arugala, bleu cheese, red onions, basil grapeseed oil and shallots with 12 yr. old balsamic vinagrette,Vietnamese Cabbage, carrots, purple and green cabbage, onions mixed herbs, peanuts, shallots with a rice wine vinagrette and Spicy Squid, lemongrass, mixed herbs, roasted shallots in a zesty chili, garlic and lime sauce.

 

 

 

5th Course

Lightly Seared Pompano with endamame over vermacelli noodles with a saffron & crustacean reduction.

 

 

 

 

6th Course

Rack of Lamb with bundled asparagus tips atop a cognac and fig reduction, accompanied by French Country Style cassoulet. 

 

 

 

 

7th Course

Artisanal Cheese Plate: sheep's milk, aged goat, brie, quince paste and gorgonzola, served with herb toast.

 

 

 

   

 

8th Course

Dessert trio of: Vanilla Custard with cubed fresh fruit, Banana Tapioca topped with peanut shards and Chocolate Mousse with strawberry.

 

 

  

Elegant presentations, her beautifully handcrafted flowers and attention to detail with regard to the service, all reinforce BT's commitment to the whole dining experience. Each creation, like the atmosphere, envelops you in the Zen tradition and permeates every nuance of your being.

This is Vietnamese like you have never envisioned before.

restaurant  BT

1633 West Snow Ave.

Tampa, Florida

813-253-1916

www.restaurantbt.com

Brew Babies, Cape Coral, FL

 

Finally, a reason to cross the bridge from Ft. Myers to Cape Coral in search of fine dining! As you have come to figure out by now, one of our favorite phrases is, "You can't eat the decor." At Brew Babies in Cape Coral, not only is the decor stunning, this restaurant lives up to it with stellar cuisine and service.

Owners Wayne and Valerie Elam have created an oasis in downtown Cape Coral that transports you to the Mediterranean the moment you walk though the gate.

With al fresco dining in the eclectic courtyard, combined with white tablecloth service in the many unique and private alcoves, you can easily lose yourself in the abiance of this one of a kind space, at once imagining yourself in the south of France or possibly the Costa del Sol in Spain. We chose to recline outside in the courtyard on the wicker chase, partaking of what Executive Chef, Cory Kuck (pronounced; cook) describes as 'World Cuisine.' We describe it as inspired and fantastic.

 

At night, the place eases into smooth music with Jazz in The Courtyard, featuring a series of local and nationl Jazz artists.  

We started our evening with what is now known as the 'Brew Babies Cheese Plate, a hearty platter of rugged, mature English Cheddar, Dutch Gouda, Comte, Beemster Dutch (aged 26 months) and Gorgonzola seved with substantial portions of apple slices, necturines and  fresh salad with a liight dressing.

To accompany our first selection, from an excellent wine list consiting of unique, boutique wines, served either by the bottle or by the glass, we chose; Whispering Angel dry Rose, Provence and a hearty glass of Avieso Malbec Reserve, 2006.

Barcelona Shrimp, sauteed shrimp tossed with a white bean salad in a light white wine citrus sauce and a crustini.

This dish is fabulous, the shrimp cooked to perfection and the white bean salad is so good, it makes the shrimp an added bonus. The light citrus dressing is wonderful and we could have eaten a bowl of the beans all by themselves and been more than pleased.

 

 Seared Sea Scallops, with a Marsala Gorgonzola sauce seved with crustini.

Seared to perfection, crisp and carmalized outside, while meltingly tender inside, Chef Kuck lets the freshness of the ingredient speak for itself. To quote him, "Its just a scallop, until you blend it with the sauce. All the flavor comes from the sauce, using simple fresh ingredients." We agree. The sweetness of the scallop, balanced by the dry tartness of the sauce is a true delight.

Cranberry Thai Cod, served with Jasmine rice and fresh vegetables.

Served absolutely fresh and flaky, the sweetness of the cranberries lets you savor the taste of the fish, while the gradual intensity of the chile creeps up to finish each bite beautifully. This dish is a staple of the restaurant and it's easy to understand why.

 

Pan Seared Duck Breast, seved with a black cherry & Congac demi, roasted fennel and potato gratin with  fresh vegetables.

This duck breast, expertly seared with just some simple salt and pepper, medium rare and fork tender, is what duck should taste like. While the Chef Corey could have overpowered the breast with such a rich sauce, he sparingly added just enough to have it enhance the natural flavors of the protien.

 

For dessert, we chose the homemade carrot cake.. While we thought this more resembled a spice cake, it was rich and moist with a cream cheese icing and was good.

All in all, you will not be disappointed in any aspect of your experience at Brew Babies and with Wayne and Valerie stopping buy to chat, as well as exemplar service from our hostess Ariel, and the incredible cuisine coming out of Chef Kuck's kitchen, so comfortable were we, that we could have stayed all night, lounging on the sofa, listening to the smooth Latin Jazz sounds and enjoying the ambiance.

BREW BABIES
BISTRO & COFFEE SHOP
1520 Lafayette Street, Down Town Cape Coral  33904
239-542-2224    (behind the Quality Inn)

Savant Fine Dining

 Located in a strip mall, the nondescript exterior of this restaurant is quite deceiving. From the ouside, you could never imagine the culinary delights that await you once you enter Chef Miller's domain.

 

After experiencing Chef Millers tasting, it is easy to see why Savant received the honor of being named one of the "2008 Top 100 Restaurants in America" by Zagat.

Smooth jazz on the radio and a semi open kitchen give you the intimate feel that you are the only patron and it is almost as if you have your own private chef.

Rose petals down center of black tablecloths give a romantic touch. Fabric draped from the ceiling and deep rich color on the walls give you you the feeling that you are in the "intimacy of someone's private dining room, with the sophistication of a big-city restaurant."

The menu is eclectic, sometimes never actually matching up to what is being served, as each day, Chef Miller recreates his tasting based upon what is locally available at the market that morning.

1st Course

Dinner started with Diver Scallop on top of fingerling potato with gruyere cheese souffle (served in a demi tasse cup). 

2nd Course 

Soup trio-Wild mushroom and dark chocolate
Sweet corn & Broccoli and gruyere

 

 3rd Course 

Salad with Maytag blue vinaigrette with tumeric aoili and chile aoili

 

  

 

Intermezzo

Strawberry sorbet with chocolate ribbon served in a tealight candle holder (innovative)

 

Main course(s)

 

Wild boar - seared with only salt and pepper atop fingerling potato with pomegranate and peach reduction

Dry aged beef served with same as above

   

 

Gruyere and gouda stuffed shells with a chicken breast stuffed with broccoli and cheese - horizontal presentation

 

 

 

 

 Dessert
Cheesecake with chocolate spear and pulled sugar 'medallion' with port wine and chocolate reduction with mini kiwi. 

 

 

727.421.9975
2551 Drew Street, Suite 107, Clearwater, Florida

AQUAVIT

After having chatted with Marcus Samuelsson for a time on this rainy New York afternoon, the combination of having read, prepared and tried items from both his cookbooks, and our conversation, gave us a bit more understanding of his thought process as he creates a dish. We were eager to partake of his Chef's Paired Tasting at Aquavit, winner of the James Beard "Best Restaurant in NYC" award in 2003. Louis has followed Marcus, host of the show "Inner Chef", from early in his career, having watched his numerous TV and guest appearences over the years. That, and his recent duel with Bobby Flay on Iron Chef, had us eagerly anticipating our evening of culinary flight.

At Marcus's suggestion we ordered the full 14 course tasting menu, so that we could experience all that the restaurant and his executive chef, Johan Svensson have to offer. There are 2,  7 course chef's tastings to choose from. We ordered both and shared, as is our way. In typical N.Y. style, I will cut to the chase. We were delighted by the execution, the art on the plate, and by the fact that, as artistically as this flight was in its presentation, the taste was exponentially even better than that.

The decor is decidedly Scandinavian and salutes the classic furniture and interior designers of Scandinavia with, to use the restaurant's own description, "a nod to Danish Masters Arn Jacobsen, Poul Kjaerholm and Verner Panton."

 

 

To say that this meal was excellent is to almost get the description right. Marcus and Chef Svensson took us on a journey of elgant fine dining while taking us on a tour through Scandinavian cuisine. While plates arrived with cutting edge, new age presentations, the integrity of the dishes served was in a way that captures all that is the Scandinavian tradition of the ingredient used. This was a truly enjoyable experience, and it was made more so by thoughts back to sitting with Marcus just hours before, as he revealed his thought inspirations with regard to each dish, and all the elements that make up that one amazing bite. To hear his words while consuming his creations makes you appreciate the nuances that he brings to a dish even more. His cookbooks did that for us. His cuisine and personality brought that to us. He opens you up to the emotion of food. After all, that is what it is essentially all about for all of us who are foodies. For us, food invokes an emotion, and the really good chefs move us by the art they create and bring to us on their china canvas each night.

We started our evening with a flight of aquavit that the restaurant infuses in-house, to awake the taste buds. We chose the Horseradish, Chipolte Pepper and Mango and the liquor delivered its anticipated punch. I say this with tongue in cheek as while I am familiar with this drink, it is potent.

On to dinner.....

A HERRING SAMPLER, taken from the cafe menu out front, of  six delightfully distinct interpretations of this ingredient started off our evening.

 

Course 1:

LOBSTER ROLL, bacon, trout roe.

HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD, fresh dill cheese, balsamic vinaigrette, breadsticks

 

Course 2:

 

 FOIE GRAS GANACHE, duck confit, apple compote.

MUSHROOM RAVIOLI, pioppini mushrooms, peas

 

Course 3:

HOT-SMOKED TROUT, apple-horseradish broth.

ROASTED BEETS, goat cheese, watercress

 

 

Course 4:

VENISON, cured ham, huckleberries, dumplings.

SALT-BAKED FENNEL corn spätzle, roasted French horn mushroom

 

 

Course 5:

OSSAU-IRATY VIELLE, tomato tarragon salad, 

MONTENEBRO, truffle honey, micro greens

  

  Course 6:

HONEYDEW CONSOMMÉ, watermelon tartar,cantaloupe sorbet

CHOCOLATE AND MARZIPAN TERRINE, toasted almond ice cream, saffron-orange sauce, 

ARCTIC CIRLE,  Passion fruit lava within a cone of goat cheese with a thin tuile cookie sandwiched between the parfait and a scoop of garnet sorbet. This was a wonderful combination of flavors and textures. 

 

At the end of our excursion, Chef Svensson and his staff were most gracious, taking a few moments to chat with us in the kitchen on what was a busy Friday night. Make Aquavit a must on your next trip to NYC. You will thank us for the recommendation after the first bite, and forget we even exist by your last.

CHEF’S PAIRED TASTING MENU, $115 pp, $195. with wine pairing.

Gordon Ramsay at The London, NYC 

Quiet, refined, elegant.

If you base your opinions on TV personalities, then you would not dare to think that I am describing Gordon Ramsay, the brash, often down right cruel and demanding Master Food Maestro of the TV show Kitchen Nightmares. Yet, indeed I am. Immaculate is the word that comes to mind when I describe the experience we had recently when we sat for dinner with friends at "Gordon Ramsay at the London" in New York City's London Hotel.

After experiencing this restaurants impeccable service, it is easy to see why it is one of only a handful of New York City eateries to have garnered a Michelin 2 Star ** rating. Chef Ramsay has stated he will not be satisfied until it has a 3 star. He would then be in very elite company, as only Jean Georges, Le Bernardin and Per Se have recieved the coveted rating. With 2 stars, he is still in quite illustrious company with:  Bouley, Daniel, Del Posto, Masa and Picholin as the others in this category. Our opinion is he is not far from his goal, service and cuisine were outstanding.

When you enter from the London Hotel Lobby, you walk into the dining room from the front of the house, through Maze, the relaxed and more casual restaurant which boasts its own stellar menu. The moment the frosted glass door closes behind you, you are swallowed by the hushed tones of intimate conversation, and the subdued atmosphere that permeates such an elegant setting. This 45 seat dining room has creamed neutral tones with an air of of old world charm.  

We chose the Menu Prestige.*pictures are not specific to the menu..

Course 1:

Pressed Hudson Valley Foie Gras, with candied ginger, tapioca and calvados jelly, toasted sourdough.

Course 2:

Sauteed Maine Diver Scallops with mixed spices, cauliflower puree and sherry caramel.

 

Course 3:

Slow Cooked Sablefish with butternut squash carpacio, red wine vinagrette.

 

Course 4:

Loin of Colorado Lamb with spring garlic, baby turnips and Pommery mustard.

 

Course 5:

Filet of Brandt Beef with braised short rib, cipollini onions, baby beets.

 

Course 6:

Srawberry sorbet, white rum gelee and crystallized mint.

Selection of cheese from the trolley. $17.00 supplement

Course 7:

Cinnamon sable with rasberry cremeux and Kilchurn Estate honeycomb.

 

 

Seven courses $135

 Wine pairing $95 

We were then treated to a tour of the pristine kitchen, which, as it was explained by our host Jean-Pierre Yvart, boasts 85 chefs in total. The kitchen services all of the hotel's needs, from room service, to the more casual Maze, and finally, the fine dining room where we dined that evening. A Chef's Tasting Table is available for up to 8 guests with a flat rate of $1,900.00.

 

 

151 West 54th Street (between 6th and 7th Avenues)
New York, NY 10019
T: 212 468 8888
F: 212 698 8138

BLU SUSHI

2008 March of Dimes, 'Chefs Auction' 1st Place Winner- Fine Dining. 

This isn't the first time you've  read about Blu Sushi and it certainly won't be the last. This is a hip and trendy spot offering a sleek and club like atmosphere, which just so happens to be serving some of the best sushi in South Florida. Coupled with the carnival assortment of Outrageous Cocktails, such as the Alhoa Mr. Edison, or the DejaBlu, this restaurant would be just as at home in Miami or NYC as it is in the Gulf Coast Town Center, in Ft. Myers or Naples. On the day we visited Chefs Billy and Kevin Mak, after graciously sitting for our Chef to Chef interview, the brothers insisted on getting behind the counter to whip up some of their specialties. With a wink as he poured some of his favorite cold saki for us, Billy explained about their partnership and about how they had come up with the name.

The name blu, is an acronym for "brothers like us," a nod to the group of partners who started the restaurant. Along with their partners and director Larry Genta, they have grown the restaurant into a destination. The diverse and incredibly creative original specialty rolls are as beautiful to taste as they are to look at, and as many of you know, art on a plate" goes a long way with us.

 

Both of these young chefs are full of life and when we sat for lunch, we discussed China and all the the economic and culinary trends that make up Hong Kong. Billy explained that they try to get back there as much as possible to follow the trend restaurants. Seems, once a new dumpling or chicken dish or preparation becomes popular, little restaurants pop up all over the city that specialze in that new "trend". 

When the next new thing pops up, with its own eateries, they then follow the new one. He explains that it keeps them in the forefront of what chefs are thinking globally with regard to ingredients. They then sometimes try to replicate some of the trends they experience, bending them for application in a sushi environment.

Whether a local, or in Southwest Florida for a short stay, Blu Sushi should be on your must do list.

You can read more about this restaurant and these culinary Picassos in this month's Chef to Chef.

Below is a gallery of some of the artisitic presentations that await patrons of BLU SUSHI.

 

 

The Venue, St. Petersburg

Friday or Saturday night, the new place to be in Tampa/St. Pete is The Venue. The name is certainly appropriate as housed under one roof at this chic hot spot are three different 'venues' designed to appeal to any variety of tastes and palates, giving one the feel of 'high roller' establishments one might find in Las Vegas or New York. As you walk in, to your left, you will find Viaggio, The Venue's Signature Tapas Restaurant, which is touted as an' international journey.' Across the center bar and stage, you will find Takara, offering guests  contemporary and traditional style sushi, while upstairs is the hottest new nightclub in town, Club V.

You realize from the moment you arrive that this will be a unique experience as the smoked glass front door is opened by a black suited doorman and you are wisked into the chic and elegant world inside. It seems as if everywhere you turn there is a staff member asking if they can be of help and the attention to detail is evident right from the start. Upon entering, the feel is that you may have been transported to another place and time with the huge curtain of the stage directly in front of you. Louis couldn't help but remark that he kept thinking to himself, " Toto, we're not in Kansas any more", and he continued to steal glances at the curtain, anticipating its parting to the words, "Come closer, I am the great and powerful OZ."

Club V

  

 

 

Housed in The Venue’s upper level is the nightclub, Club V. This exclusive club opens at 10:00 pm Friday and Saturday nights with a $10 per-person cover charge. Club V guests discover a new level of elegance, with their Signature Menu available until 1:00 am.  

The Sky Bar, overlooking the Martini Bar Atrium, provides access to an outdoor smoking deck.

 

The Champagne Room couples plush seating with gracious ambiance; reservations are recommended., There is a two-bottle minimum, with one champagne ordered from reserve. 

Two Skyboxes overlook the popular Martini Atrium. With secured access and a four-bottle minimum, each accommodates 10-12 people. The two skyboxes can be opened to one party; there is a $250 reservation fee. On Club V’s outdoor Rooftop Patio, three charming cabanas provide seating for 10 people each. Smoking is permitted and there’s a two-bottle minimum; reservations are recommended. Until 9:00 pm, Club V is available for private receptions. 

Takara

Takara presents a bountiful selection of contemporary and traditional style sushi complemented by an extensive selection of cold and hot sake.

Takara means “treasure,” and under the culinary leadership of Tada “Yoshi” Kohazame, every dish embodies the aesthetic grace that glorifies the freshness of this cuisine. A very unique concept is that you can watch Yoshi on the restaurant’s plasma screen television.

 

Viaggio. ****

 

Being huge fans of tapas, when friends, Chef Billy Klar and Dr. Nick Okeson recommended this restaurant, we knew we were in for a treat. Needless to say, these boys know good food. Elegant and inviting, the warm colors of the this eatery invoke the international ambiance that is the signature of its menu. Selections were abundant with an excellent wine list garnered from 'The Wine Room', a secluded space in the depths of the restaurant, which is available for small private partries of up to about 25, that houses close to 10,000 bottles ranging in price from a very moderate $25 to $531.

We ordered 2 moderately priced bottles of a meritage, B.R. Cohn, SyrCab, Sanoma, CA., $55 each. We were tempted by the ZD "Abacus", but thought to wait for a more special occasion to part with the $531.00 this bottle commands.  

Service from the minute we sat down was impeccable, with our server seeing to our every need. As this is tapas, we had a wide variety of offerings to choose from and we were not shy. One aspect to point out is that while tapas is a small plate experience,  inovatively, 'entree portions' of some of the choices are available for those less adventurous, looking for a traditional one dish meal.

We ordered a variety of hot and cold tapas starting with the wonderful and crisply refreshing Yellow Fin Tuna Tartare, served with a ginger vinagrette, red curry-soy micro greens and a lotus root crisp, $13. The vinagrette was perfectly spicy and woke up the delicate flavor of the tuna, while the greens and crisp added a nice combination of textures.

Next up was the Seared Diver Scallops, $14, caramelized scallops, roasted corn and black bean salsa, with a smoked tomato coulis. Perfectly cooked, the scallops were sweet and tender and the dish received a nice little kick from the coulis, which had just a hint of heat.

We could not pass up the Tamarind Chicken Kabobs, $8, with Jamaican slaw and tamarind drizzle. Falling off the kabob juicy chicken, with a great flavor.

We decided to experience the 'entree style tapas' and ordered the Trio of Duck, seared duck breast, foie gras and confit, served with a citrus cous cous, braised chard and a gran marinier demi, $26. This was a marvelous dish, with the duck cooked to perfection and while there is never enough foie gras to suit us, the standout here was the confit. If you are a fan of duck, don't miss this dish.

Equally good was the Pan Seared Wild Striped Bass, haricot vert, fingerling potatoes, tomato confit, shitake mushrooms, with a truffle vinagrette, $23. Fresh and flaky this was incredibly fresh and of course, anything truffle is a winner in our book. 

The highlight of the entrees though, was the Pancetta Crusted Rack of Lamb, with white bean ragout, braised chard, balsamic reduction and basil pesto, $24. All we can say here is wow! These lamb lollipops were perfectly rare, the pancetta adding a saltiness that is expertly balanced by the sweetness of the balsamic reduction. Including the basil pesto to the dish is inspired, and it adds to the melange of flavors, invoking a party in your mouth.

For desert we opted for the Key Lime Pie with Fennel Ice Cream, with a blood orange sauce and fresh berries, $8, Caramelized Banana Torijas, with cinnamon vanilla bean brioche, caramelized bananas and apricot rum foam, $9 and American Whiskey Bread Pudding with Warm Berry, served with a rasberry sauce and anglaisem bourbon ice cream, $8.

Key Lime Pie being one of Elaines favorites, she was not dissapointed, as it was light and airy and not overly tart. We did think there could be a bit more fennel flavor in the ice cream, and when Chef Uzilla visited our table, he assured us that he is working on it. The Bananas were unbelievably rich an decadent and the foam, marvelous. The bread pudding was excellent and the bourbon ice cream added a nice touch.

Overall , we were impressed with The Venue. Its mission to give its patrons the complete 'dining experience' is successfully being carried out by an attentive staff,  wonderful chefs and a unique and elegant atmosphere. As we were there on a Monday night, we did not have the chance to experience Club V, but are making it a point to make sure we are there in the very near future, looking forward to dancing the night away until the wee hours of the St. Petersburg morning.

$$

INDOMANIA 7/19/2008

Rating: ***1/2

Tucked away in a little street ending in Miami Beach, is a taste of true Indonesian fare. Nestled in a small store front topped by the Lorraine Hotel, this is a gem among gems. Recommended to us by Ami James of TLC's hit show "Miami Ink." (Look for his video "Up Close & Personal" coming in September's issue), this restaurant delivers all the unique tastes associated with this simple yet tasty cuisine. 

 The atmosphere is quiet and relaxed with exotic smells coming from the kitchen immediately tantalizing your taste buds the moment you walk through the door.

The decor is eclectic yet elegant in the very casual way you would expect from a beach restaurant with exotic touches scattered throughout. A nice touch are the table covers, which bring that flavor of the cuisine's culture to bear as you partake of the meal set before you.

 

  

The place is owned by Pieter and Ineke Both, who hale from Amsterdam. With the rich Indonesian history liberal in its Dutch influence, the match of this pair, the cuisine and the relaxed welcome atmosphere you encounter upon entering is a winner.

If you have never tried Indonesian Cuisine, do as we did and order the 'Dutch Treat.' It is the best way to get a sampling of all that this wonderful cuisine has to offer. We opted for the Indonesian Rijsttafel Sumatra. ($26.00pp, min. 2 persons)

This is a 14 course tasting  that is absolutely out of this world, lovingly prepared by Ineke, with Pieter handling the descriptions and explanations of each dish, all of which are completely unique in its own right.

While it would take too much space to deconstruct every offering for you, a copy of the items that make up this dish is below for your vewing and I will highlight some of our favorites. 

Sateth Ayam was a standout, a grilled chicken skewer with peanut sauce (one of my all time favorite sauces) that was moist and tender, almost falling off the skewer. One of Louis' favorites was the Sayur Lodeh, mixed vegetables in coconut broth, the vegetables cooked perfectly crunchy, while the broth was light and wonderful. The Telor Besegnek, boiled eggs in curry sauce was absolutely marvelous, with the perfect amount of curry. Flavorful, yet not overpowering, with Ineke applying just the right amount of the spice. She adeptly refrained from using too much, as can happen when some chefs cook with this strong flavor enhancer. 

Not to be outdone, the Rendang Padang, beef stew in thick spiced coconut sauce was one of the best uses of beef I have had in some time. The Atjar Ketimon, sweet and sour cucumbers, was a nice refreshing offering that counter-balanced the heat that is inherent in most dishes from this part of the world.

If you have never tried black rice pudding, you have no idea what you are missing. This is a real treat for those who know it and unlike traditional 'American 'rice pudding, the rice needs to be a bit firmer, not creamy. Chef Ineke hit the mark with this dessert, and topped with what we had to assume was homeade vanilla ice cream, ( I say this because no store bought ice cream I've ever had tasted this good), the combination of flavors was the perfect end to our culinary journey.

All in all a wonderful taste of the exotic and well worth the trip and visit when you are in Miami Beach. We will definately go back. Thanks Ami, we give Indomania a ***½ star rating, and gladly add them to our Recommended Restaurants list. 

Indomania Restaurant
131 26th Street
(off Collins Ave.)
Miami Beach, Fl. 33140
305-535 6332

www.indomaniarestaurant.com

$$$$

Cafe Lurcat 6/14/08

Rating: **3/4

While I'd like to say that my meal at Cafe Lurcat in Naples was as impressive as the ambiance and setting in which it was served, unfortunately I must say that this is another of those times where I must invoke the phrase, "You can't eat the decor."

The restaurant's look is indeed impressive in its appearance and one is taken aback at the grandeur and elegance that greets you when walking in.

Situated on two floors, the downstairs is a bar / lounge boasting a space that is indeed unique and if you are looking for a cocktail with friends or a date, by all means, this is the place for you.

Unfortunately Louis and I were there to experience the cuisine and that is a different story altogether. Actually, the second story.

Rich creams greet you as you ascend the grand staircase into the very chic dining room on the top level of this restaurant. A ceiling mural on the vaulted arched ceiling, with oversized 'lamp shade" chandeliers is at once stunning and comfortable. With its woven chairs and strategically placed gallery lighting and banquetts separated by uplit marble, your mind immediately anticipates the culinary wonders that the space implies. The staff was quite attentive and pleasant, explaining the specials and offering advice as to our selections.

The champagne/wine list is impressive, with 'by the glass', half bottles and full bottle offerings. Full bottles of champagne run from $40-$2000, while wines cost from $28-$1350. Unique to the 'by the glass' wines is 3 different options. You can select a 2.5 ounce tasting, a 6 ounce glass or a robust 10 ounce glass of a fine variety of wines. I chose a 6 ounce glass of '04 Cava Reserva, Marquis de Gelida, Spain ($10), and my partner Louis selected an '05 Cotes de Rhone JL Chave Mon Coeur, France ($13).

We started by ordering our appetizers and salad while deferring our entree order until we had partaken of the first course. Our selections were Buckwheat Crepe with Brie de Meaux, Smoked Kentucky Ham and Figs ($9), Foie Gras with Caramel Apples ($16.50) and Wild Mushroom Soup with Fioe Gras filled Ravioli ($13.50).

Twenty five minutes later when the appetizers finally arrived, we assumed the wait would be worth it. Unfortunatley, it was exactly the opposite. The crepe was unimpressively served as a plain brown lump in the midst of a white plate and sided by a half of one of the smallest of figs imaginable, that had been quartered to make it appear as more than it was. With no sauce and overcooked, the edges were crisp and brown, the crepe was bland, the ham cool to touch and lacking any smoke flavor we could find with the cheese non existant.

The Foie Gras, which is one of my favorite delicasies, was tiny, greasy and search though we may, the caramel of the apples eluded us completely. This was an overpriced insult to us and the Foie Gras.

Next up was the Wild Mushroom Soup, served in a tiny tureen set on a larger serving platter. Yes, the soup had the woodsy flavor of the wild mushrooms, with a hint of truffle oil, but upon eating the ravioli, again we were perplexed, as the menu had alluded they would be fiilled with foie gras. After removing one from the soup, clearing away the foam that served as the soup, and opening the ravioli, we finally got a hint of the foie gras. A very unauspicious start and all three selections were quite dissappointing to say the least.

The salad of Goat Cheese panna cotta with Roasted Beets and Arugala was absolutely fabulous. It nicely cleansed the palate and was light and refreshing. The beets were cut carpaccio thin and the hint of ginger gave the salad a nice zip. The best thing the chef did here was to leave the fresh ingredients alone and let them speak for themselves.

One must be aware, everything is a la carte from your entree to any starch or vegetable you might choose. Sadly, having not learned our lesson from the appetizers, we forged ahead as we were there to review, and ordered entrees, hoping that the night might be saved.

We selected the Pork Tenderloin with Pork Belly with Ginger BBQ glaze ($23.75), and the Yellowtail Snapper with Parsley, Butter and Lemon($28). As a vegetable we ordered Steamed Baby Bok Choy with a spicy black bean sauce($8).

If we were insulted with the appetizers, we were more so with the entrees. Calculating the cost per bite of the 3 tiny slivers of tenderlion and the inch and a half by inch and a half cube of pork belly, this dish roughly cost $4 per bite. As for the Snapper, it was absolutely cooked to perfection. Light, flaky and fresh. Unfortunately, for the amount we paid for 2 small fillets, I could have made the same meal in my own kitchen and fed 4 of us. With vegetable and starch. While tasty, the chef's assumption that the decor of the dining room would wow our senses and have us not notice the incredibly bad value of the meal, is pompous at best. Remember that's all that arrived on the plate.

The Bok Choy which was billed as spicy was actually so hot that all taste was completely destroyed by the overwhelming heat. I love my spicy food, but this was an inedible offering.

If you have been following my reviews, you know that we are not intimidated or unwilling to pay high prices for a great meal. We also understand that for some reason, restaurants on 5th Ave feel that it is their right to overcharge based upon their rent. That said, there is no excuse for the disdain for its patrons shown by Lurcat in assuming that we are willing to gouged because the interior decor is hip and trendy.

When we asked the chef, who stopped by our table, about a sauce that accompanied our Pork entree and why it wasn't mentioned in the menu, he haughtily replied, "If we put all the ingredients that went into every dish, we would not have enough room on the menu." Chef, while that may be so in your mind, the one ingredient you did not put on the plate was a good value for a good meal.

We give this restaurant a **¾ star rating and will have no problem stopping by for a glass of wine and a salad in order to take in the wonderful ambiance.

$$$

Bice 4/12/08

Stepping into this restaurant for the first time gives one the feeling that you are in Naples, Italy rather than Naples, Florida. Authenticity is the word here, and as my partner and I are both of Italian decent, we appreciated the effort. Italian speaking waiters, clad in dinner jackets and ties and offering 'Buon Giornos' or 'Buona Serras' immediately set the tone at this elegant, upscale eatery.

Offering al fresco dining, as well as an intimate lounge, the restaurant's decor is soft creams and dark cherry woods combined with two expansive mirrors covering the back wall of the rear alcove. There is a contemporary feel to the dining room, with its open, airy clean lines and upholstered dining chairs, yet the space still offers patrons a hint of old world elegance. On this night, wonderful ambiance was also set by the melodic tones of two live classical guitarists playing in the lounge area, supplying a real Mediterranean atmosphere and making the authentic Italian dining experience all the more complete. (Bice needs to be careful with its music presentations. We have heard from other patrons of the restaurant that some nights, the music performed can actually take away from the elegant feel.) Strict attention to detail has been paid in order to heighten the diners overall aesthetic experience, and our hopes that the meal would be equal to the surroundings were high. As I have stated in other reviews, 'You can't eat the decor'. In the case of Bice, my expectations were exceeded.

Tables were elegantly and impeccably set, yet I could have done without the breadsticks in a paper wrapper. While maybe cute to some, for me, it diminished the overall statement made by the perfect place settings. However, this would come to be one of my only negative observations on this night.

The restaurant has a good selection of wines, both by the bottle and by the glass, for those who like a little 'vino' with their meal. Also offered every night from 5pm-6pm, is a "First Seating." A 3 course, limited menu dinner, which consists of salad or soup, choice of 4 entrees and dessert, all for a very reasonable $25.00 per person (not including tax and gratuity). The menu changes seasonally and on this particular evening in April, we chose from the 'Springtime 08' menu.

My partner and I started off our dinner with Timballo di Polenta e Fromagia di Capra Avolto nella Verza, goat cheese and polenta flan wrapped in savoy cabbage ($14), Calamari, Gamberi, Zucchine e Funghi Fritti con Salsa di Pomadoro Piccante, crispy flash fried calamari, prawns, zucchini and mushrooms, served with a spicy tomato sauce ($18), and Capesante di Manzo con Cestino di Parmigiano e Rucola al Profumo di Tartufo e Senape, seared scallops with vegetable sticks in saffron sauce. ($18)

The Polenta was perfectly cooked and creatively presented as one would expect flan to be served. The three unique textures and contrasting flavors of the tart, creamy goat cheese, the smooth graininess of the nutty polenta and the crisp freshness of the cabbage, combined to give the mouth a memorable sensory experience.

The genius of our next dish was that each element and ingredient stood out on its own. The calamari was tender, with no hint of oiliness with the batter flaky and light. The button mushrooms were meaty and the prawns were done expertly, neither under nor overdone. The highlight of this dish though, was the tomato sauce. I must explain that my partner, who is full blooded Italian, having grown up with "Grandma's recipe" and now his own, is extremely picky when it comes to sauce, or as we call it 'gravy'. To hear him state that he would eat the sauce served with this selection by itself, as if a tomato soup, is high praise indeed. It has all the savory components that a true Italian looks for and was by far the most 'close to home' we have both tasted in some time. All we can say Chef Luotti is, "Bellisima!"

Rounding out our appetizers were the scallops. Again, seafood expertly cooked (no knife needed here), these were served with a light,beautifully bright yellow sauce, over a bed of julienned zucchini, summer squash and carrots. All ingredients working in concert to enhance the scallops, while never detracting from the star of the dish.

We shared a large Caesar salad that was brought out and separated tableside by our server who expertly mastered a one handed serving technique that we have not seen in years. Further evidence that this restaurant is paying close attention to every detail of its guest's dining experience.

For entrees we ordered Petto di Pollo Fracito ai Funghi e Pancetta in Salsa al Porto e Flan di Asparagi, roasted chicken breast filled with mushrooms and bacon in a port wine sauce and served with an asparagus flan, ($26) and Crespelle Gratinate al Forno in Salsa di Timo e Porri, oven baked butternut squash crepes with a leek and thyme sauce ($22).

The inverted custard cup presentation of the asparagus flan floating in a sea of port sauce, combined with the almost lamb like presentation of chicken breast (bone standing tall), was very creative and had our mouths watering instantly. The flan was light with a souffle consistancy. The chicken was served with very crispy skin reminiscent of a Peking Duck dish, with the meat moist and juicy. Filled with bits of bacon and tender mushrooms, it was apparent that the breast had been seared in bacon fat before being roasted. The smokey pork flavor joined with the tartness of the port wine reduction make a winning combination. This dish was excellent.

Not to be outdone, the crepes were served as a double triangle atop deep fried zucchini, squash and carrot sticks. I must point out here that an offering of the same spring themed vegetables was present throughout all the dishes we were served, yet not once was the presentation drab or repetitious. The leek-thyme puree was a terrific creation and with a drizzle of olive oil and crushed black pepper, this dish was amazing.

For dessert we ordered carpaccio d'Ananas, marinated pineapple carpacio served with a lemon sorbet ($9) and Torta Soffice di Mele della Nonna con Passata di Mango e Gelato ($8), warm classic apple tart with puree of fresh mango and vanilla ice cream. A wonderful tea chest was offered with Harney and Sons teas, and my partner had a glass of 20 yr old Tawny Port ($10) and a double espresso.

The Apple Tart was a beautifully delivered dish of comfort food that was kicked up by the addition of the fresh mango puree. The standout though, was the carpaccio. For those willing to take a risk with their palate, this dessert is not to be missed. On the Specials menu, this brilliant creation by Chef Monica Luotti is a 'one of a kind' experience. Paper thin slices of pineapple in a star anise and clove sauce was simply incredible. Serving it with the lemon gelato is inspired, as after each bite, the gelato serves to cleanse the palate, enabling each subsequent bite of this dessert to be as exciting as the first. Bravo!

Overall, this was a night of near culinary perfection. As reviwers, it is more common than not, to have some of the restaurants we visit shine in one aspect of a meal, only to be mediocre in other parts. There are however a few gems that get it all right. On this night, Bice was one of the gems. The restaurant was packed with diners, yet service was impeccable from start to finish. Each ingredient of every dish stood out on its own and all were without flaw. We congratulate Executive Chef Luotti, Manager Salvatore Sinzieri and their staff for garnering Gourmet Girl Magazine's 4^½ Star rating. It is well deserved and Bice easily joins our list of Recommended Restaurants.

$$$

The Sandy Butler

Upon entering the Sandy Butler restaurant, you are not quite sure what to expect. After all, a restaurant alongside a market? Ok, I thought, this would be a Casual Spotlight, not a full blown fine dining review. Imagine my surprise when an elegant dining room presented itself, with a semi-alfresco Gazebo Room also offerered. I quickly retrieved my larger review notebook. A full length glass wall separates the two spaces, and I came to understand that all the fresh ingredients prepared by Executive Chef Philippe Arlandis come from the market daily. Somehow, the owners of this dual personality establishment have managed to keep both entities unique and separate unto themselves.

We were met with a friendly staff wishing us a good evening and opted to sit in the Gazebo Room. Situated mere feet from San Carlos Blvd., busy with those coming to and from Ft. Myers Beach, one would immediately assume that outside dining here would include traffic noise and exhaust fumes. Quite the contrary. An ingenious use of large plantation shutters adorn the windows, allowing just enough outside atmosphere to justify the 'semi alfresco' moniker, yet quite efficiently subdue the sound of the busy roadway, with the only 'fumes' being the aromas of the tantalizing looking dishes passing us on their way to other tables. Walls adorned with alternating orchids and ornamental shore grasses, with black vases fillled with Amaryllis on the tables lend a touch of class, while still reminding one that this is beach country. In a unique twist, the draping of the napkins over the sides of tables covered in floor length black tablecloths, differed slightly from their placement in the indoor dining room, showing an attention to the small details that make for a memorable dining experience.

We started the evening with Classical French Onion Soup ($5), Morroccan Lamb Stew ($4) and a traditional Crab Cake ($12), pan seared and topped with a Chipolte aoili. In most modern day restaurants French Onion has been 'Americanized' and is usually served with mozzarella or any number of substitute cheeses and always seems laden with overpowering saltiness. Not so at Sandy Butler. The chef has remained true to his French heritage and served the soup, abundant with sweet onion flavor, in its traditional form, topped with gruyere and swiss, as the original recipe was intended. Sweet and savory at once, the only misstep in this large portion was that the bay leaf had not been removed.

Don't be deceived by the chicken noodle appearance of the Lamb Stew. The blending of lamb, chicken and chick peas, with noodles served al dente and seasoned with cumin, nutmeg and cinnamon, hint at the chef's Algerian origins. My regret with this dish was that I was anticipating more than a hint, and while delicious, the stew was a bit too subtle and I would have preferred a much stronger use of the spices.

While an offering on just about every menu in SWFL, the Crab Cake is one of the best versions I have encountered. Seared perfectly crispy outside, this is quite the opposite of most you can get elsewhere. Instead of the norm, where you are served a few pieces of crab encased in an abundance of breading, this selection spares the breading almost completely and you are presented with a cake packed with large peices of the sweet crustation. The chipolte adds just the right bit of zip to make it interesting, but Chef Philippe wisely lets the crab do all the talking.

With the our appetizers and soups being well done yet nothing spectacular, I was ill prepared for the excellence of the entrees! Our selections on this night were the Cheese & Spinach Ravioli served swimming in a creamy mushroom ragout ($15) and the 14oz Pork Chop, bone-in center cut and served with Stilton Cheese and port glaze ($26). Remove from your mind any preconceived notions of what is your typical ravioli offering. Whlie most ravioli dishes offer you a thick pasta mound filled with cheese in a thin sauce, these were just the opposite. Marvelously, almost translucent, paper thin pasta envelopes arrived filled alternately with tasty and delicately seasoned spinach and cheese. A healthy portion of them were served with a luxuriously thick and buttery smooth ragout, with no loss for meaty pieces of mushroom and the sauce had the perfect hint of wine. Bravo!

The Pork Chop is brilliant. Seared perfectly moist and tender, the combination of the pungent sharpness brought by the Stilton, with the aged sweetness of the port glaze puts this dish over the top. This is an 'outside the box' use of flavors, excellently proportioned, and serves to wake the palate by complimenting and enhancing the smokiness of the pork. The vegetables were steamed bright and crisp, and smartly, very lightly seasoned, so as not to throw off the balance of the dish. Presentation was also wonderful with the scalloped potatoes fanned around the chop which sat centerstage on the plate.

A nice touch is the periodic appearence of the chef in the dining room, stopping by each table to check on the progress of each meal while sometimes explaining to curious diners what went into the creation of their particular dish.

Desserts consisted of Pineapple Upside Ddown Cake with a Rum Coconut sauce ($7) and a Creme Brulee Trio ($9). The cake was extremely moist, almost pudding like, and the freshness of the tender pineapple married with the delicate rum coconut sauce make this a trip to the islands on a plate.

The trio is a well thought out offering. First up was my partner's favorite, the Chocolate & Cayenne. Rich cocoa flavor delicately laced with subtle heat from the cayenne, brought me thoughts of Motechuhzoma, the ancient Aztec chieftan, who was served thousands of jars of foaming chocolate laden with the spice. Next up was was my personal favorite, the Candied Ginger, which served to be a perfect combination of flavors and added an Asian twist. Last was the Gran Marnier, with its essence of the orange liquor bringing us back from our 'world tour' of Brulee to our home here in Florida.

In summary, I would have to say that this was a fine dining experience. Chef Philippe is doing wonderful things in this unique setting. There were some lapses in attention to detail, but overall you would be well served to experience this restaurant's unique ambiance. The market closes at 8pm each night, so if you are dining late, be sure to visit the market first so as not to miss the culinary adventure waiting just on the other side of the glass. Were it not for the few inconsistancies on this night I would gladly have given this restaurant four stars, but have no problem handing out a rating of ***½ and have added them to my list of Recommended Restaurants.

The Sandy Butler
Gourmet Market & Restaurant
17650 San Carlos Blvd., Fort Myers
239-482-6765
www.SandyButler.com

Top of Page

$$$

Roy's - Bonita Springs

Arriving over an hour early, we were prepared to wait at the bar for our reservation at this popular eatery located in Bonita Springs. However, with a warm ‘Aloha’, the smiling hostess immediately escorted us to our table. Upon entering, you are met with warm dark walls, tastefully decorated with minimalist tropical touches. A 3-D orchid wall hanging greets you when you enter and the rest of the space gives one a hint of the South Pacific.

We were led past one of the unique features of this restaurant, a special dining area located at the front of the restaurant. Beautiful large pane windows and doors separate it from the rest of the space and it was explained that this warmly lit alcove is available during regular dining hours, as well as private functions. We made our way to our table, passing both the bar with it’s simple pendant lights and the bustling open kitchen, and entered a large dining area with half moon banquettes scattered throughout. Warm and inviting, they offer discreet seclusion with their high backs and views of the open seating area offset with plantation sized slatted windows. The subtle Hawaiian art, woven menu jackets and soft native music in the background make a perfect setting for an evening in the ‘islands.’

Our server presented us with the menus and upon discovering that this was our first visit to Roy’s, provided us with a brief history of the founder, explaining that Roy Yamaguchi’s heritage of both Japanese and Hawaiian descent was the inspiration for the direction of the cuisine, which would be described as Island-Asian fusion. She then gave us an overview of the restaurant taking time to explain how the menu is set up.

There is an interesting system in place whereby each night their menu has a selection of ‘Roy’s Classics,’ items on the menu since it’s 1988 Honolulu opening denoted by the letter ‘Y’ and the local Executive Chef-Partner’s daily specials. It must be noted here that Roy’s is a chain, now owned by parent company Outback, with restaurants located throughout the country.

However, unlike Outback’s signature restaurants, which are casual, Roy’s has remained at the more polished and high end of the restaurant spectrum. Smartly, more than enough menu latitude has been given to each chef, allowing his/her restaurant the ability to be unique to the local area in which it resides. As ‘first time’ patrons, recommendations were made in order to afford us the opportunity to experience the full feel of the cuisine. The attention to detail by the servers is noteworthy, from detailed explanations of the dishes, to the presentation of our napkins.

Roy’s has an excellent, if limited, wine list with most available by the glass. Also offered is a cocktail menu featuring Signature Roy’s Specialty drinks and traditional bar fare. My partner ordered the Roy’s Hawaiian Colada, served with a sprig of fresh mint, a unique twist of a familiar classic.

We started off with Roy’s Canoe Appetizer for 2 ($26). This dish was described as a dim sum of sorts, consisting of Coconut Shrimp, Wood Grilled Szechwan Spiced Baby Back Ribs, Beef, Bleu Cheese and Spinach Tortellini, Char Sui Roasted Chicken Spring Rolls and Dragon Rolls.

Presented in a pure white dish, appropriately shaped like a canoe, it is a wonderful stage for the various colors and textures. The shrimp is served with a Japanese Namasu & Mango Sweet and Sour dipping sauce. The ‘falling off the bone ribs’ combines subtle woodsy flavors with just the right amount of Szechwan spices. They were not greasy or ‘sauce sloppy’ as one would typically associate with ribs.

Spring rolls are one of my favorites and these were excellent. The heat in the roll was offset nicely with the sweetness of pineapple and then given a surprising little extra kick from the Dragon Sauce.

The tortellinis were tightly packed with beef and spinach then bathed in natural butter. A delicate blend of flavors. Finally, the Dragon Roll, filled with tuna, sushi rice, avocado, scallion and a dollop of aioli, was a fitting end to our appetizer. Due to the heat of the Dragon Roll’s dipping sauce, I would recommend you save this for last so as not to overwork the tastebuds prematurely and miss the flavors of the other items in the dish. The ‘Canoe’ is a perfect way to start off your dining experience.

Deferring to the server’s suggestion we ordered the Maui Wowie Shrimp Salad, a Roy’s Classic ($11), complete with capers, onions, avocado slices, Feta cheese topped with a Caper Lime vinaigrette. The word that immediately pops into mind when recalling this dish is refreshing. It was as if I had a palate cleansing Intermezzo! No knife needed here as each piece was sized perfectly. The extreme freshness of all the ingredients delicately stripped my tastebuds of the previous flavors and left my mouth feeling cleansed and ready for the next course.

For entrees, we chose the Tender Short Ribs of Beef braised in Red Wine, with Scalloped Potatoes and Whole Grain Mustard reduction ($ 24), and Roy’s Classic Trio: Hibachi Grilled Salmon, served with a Citrus Ponzu sauce, Roy’s Original Blackened Island Ahi, served with a Spicy Soy Mustard Butter and Hawaiian Style Misoyaki Butterfish, with Braised Baby Bok Choy and a Lemon Ginger Soy Beurre Blanc, presented as three separate dishes in one presentation.($29)

The short ribs were melt in your mouth tender, with the mustard reduction adding just a hint of zip, but not overpoweringly so. The potatoes were cooked perfectly with soft centers and crispy outer edges. A very down to earth selection, prepared well. What it lacks in fanfare, it makes up for with the familiarity one expects from good meat and potatoes comfort food.

We started our flight of the Trio with the Salmon. Sliced thin and prepared well, it was what one would expect from a teriyaki entree and while unspectacular, it did not disappoint. Next up was the Blackened Ahi, seared expertly on the outside and served perfectly rare. Topped with delicately thin slices of shaved fresh ginger, I waited for the pop from the sauce described as ‘Spicy Soy Mustard,' but it never arrived. Nonetheless, the dish was excellent.

The star of this Trio, the Butterfish, actually deserves its own space here. It was absolutely marvelous. Just touch your fork to it and its freshness is apparent as it falls apart. To use the word ‘buttery’ to describe the sensation of putting this into your mouth is to do the dish an injustice. It was creamy smooth and the delicate flavors of the sauce made this a party in your mouth. Whether as a part of this trio, or ordered as a stand alone entree, this dish is a must. Bravo!

For desserts, we ordered the Pineapple-Upside Down Cake, served a la mode with Coconut ice cream and drizzled with a Mango, Strawberry and Kiwi sauce ($8) and the Puna Goat Cheese Cheesecake on a thin Graham Cracker with a Mango, Raspberry Drizzle($8).

Unfortunately the Upside Down Cake was very disappointing. The pineapple pieces were hard and inedible, the cake bland and tasteless and the burnt caramel taste of the sugars seemed to imply it had been left in the Salamander a touch too long. I had been told by others that this was one of their better signature desserts, and will chalk it up to just a bad night for this dish, which as with any restaurant, can happen on any given night.

The Cheesecake though is a decadent winner with a capital D! If you are not a lover of Goat Cheese, this is not the dish for you. If you do however, love goat cheese as I do, don’t miss a chance to partake in this lush, moist and wonderfully creative dessert. Personally, I would have preferred it served without the whipped cream on top, but once I removed it, I was in heaven.

As always, I make mention of the Tea Chest which arrived with an excellent selection of Novus teas.

Overall this was a wonderful dining experience with impeccably attentive, yet not overwhelmingly intrusive, service from a staff that is both well trained and extremely pleasant. This restaurant is doing all things well and Executive Chef Wade Lowe’s attention to detail is evident. I can easily give this restaurant a 4 Star rating and happily add this to my list of Recommended Restaurants.

Reservations are recommended.

26831 South Bay Dr. Suite 100,
Bonita Bay Promenade
Bonita Springs
239 498-7697

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The Veranda 2/26/2008

Nestled in the midst of Downtown Fort Myers, the Veranda’s charisma was evident from the moment the valet opened the car door. His greeting, infused with humor that we actually had found the place, was a wonderful ‘ice breaker’ after driving through and around the numerous construction barriers of the ongoing downtown facelift in order to find this restaurant icon.

We entered into the lovely piano bar area and were greeted with warm dark woods, earthy tones, the Cruvinet, and open shelves lined with bottles of the crushed grape. It immediately set a tone of old world charm. The leaded glass windows and table filled alcove, backed by views of the lush courtyard with mature tropical flora, gives one the feel of being transported to an island oasis with no evidence that the restaurant is surround by office buildings on all sides.

We were led past the kitchen and tuxedo clad waiters, offering pleasantries and smiles, into the main dining room. Soft hued walls, covered with turn of the century paintings, uniquely placed at seated eye level with wall sconces up lighting the space, gives you the feel of walking into someone’s living room, which it indeed was when Manuel Gonzalez built the now adjoined homes that make up the restaurant in 1902.

Surprisingly, this restaurant's self description with words like ‘southern charm’ and ‘deep south’, had me expecting an antebellum plantation look. I was instead met with architecture reminiscent of New England, which was later confirmed when it was explained to us that all the materials were in fact shipped from there and then assembled here. We came to realize that the ‘southern charm’ was in fact in the overall attitude and demeanor of the wait staff and the construction of a decades old menu, filled with staple dishes that this restaurant has been serving for years.

We were seated in a lovely corner booth with an elegant table setting, affording us views of both the courtyard and the original stone hearth which is the focal point of the room. Warm whole wheat molasses bread and moist mini corn muffins were served with a delicious pepper jelly as our waiter explained in detail the evening’s specials.

The restaurant offers a fine choice of regular and vintage wines. The vintage list consists of wines ranging from $45 to $500. Those with less ability to partake of these exceptional wines will find they can order from a more than adequate selection on the regular list for between $35-$50.

We began with Escargot in Puff pastry with a Maytag Bleu Cheese sauce ($8.95), Southern Grit Cakes topped with Pepper Jack cheese alongside grilled Andouille sausage ($7.50) and Artichoke Fritters stuffed with Blue crab and served with a Béarnaise sauce ($8.50). The Escargot was cooked perfectly, moist and tender. The Bleu Cheese sauce, which delicately added to the flavor of the snails without overpowering them, had the long finish of a good full bodied wine. The pastry was flaky, although the base of the puff was a bit too thick and hard.

The Southern grit cake with its thin, crunchy crust and moist, almost creamy, center topped by the Pepper Jack cheese was a marvelous presentation. Chef Murray expertly balanced the heat from the cheese and slightly zesty flavor of the Andouille sausage with a sweet red bell pepper reduction.

The Artichoke Fritters were by far the most moist and succulent hearts I have had in some time. The fritter, with no hint of oiliness at all, steamed this vegetable tender inside it and when it was cut open, the juice actually flowed onto the plate. The combination of Blue Crab stuffing and Béarnaise sauce make this dish a winner.

No southern style meal would be complete without including Fried Green Tomatoes. The Veranda serves this item as a salad offering, with bits of ham, and tops it with a Bleu Cheese dressing ($7.25). Expecting a thick slab of tomato crusted with cornmeal, which is the traditional presentation of this item, it was instead served encased in a too thick doughy crust that made it hard to taste the tomato. Once I removed most of the crust and made my way to the tomato inside, the combination of the tomato, iceberg lettuce and bleu cheese was wonderful. A very small adjustment of either a thicker slice of tomato, or a little less dough would have made this dish a bigger hit.

For our entrees, we chose the Southern Sampler mixed grill of fresh fish, Gulf Shrimp and large Sea Scallops presented over a Proscuitto Cream Fettuccini ($33.95). The fish on this night was Mahi Mahi. For our second selection we ordered Chicken Orleans, a pan seared chicken breast topped with bay shrimp, crabmeat, arugala and a Cajun Buerre Blanc ($26.95). When the Southern Sampler arrived the presentation was impressive and when I touched my knife to the impeccably cooked scallop it actually sank in as if thru butter. If it’s possible to salivate while salivating, I must say I did so. Imagine my surprise when I put the first morsel into my mouth and my scallop tasted like steak! As did the Mahi Mahi and the shrimp. The shrimp also had a sour iodine taste that added to the already unappealing beef taste of the seafood. It was obvious to both myself and my partner, who loves steak, albeit only when he actually orders it, that this fish had been grilled on the same grill top that had also cooked beef. A huge Faux Pas in this reviewer's opinion, as most chefs have in their kitchens, one grill for fish and one for beef. The Proscuitto Fettuccini was cooked al dente as it should be, with little bits of the Italian ham throughout and was light and tasty, but could not save what otherwise should have been a delightful selection.

The Chicken Orleans was a good, if unspectacular, dish with a moist cutlet topped with the shrimp, crabmeat and arugala that played off of each other well. A side of tender spaghetti squash was a nice touch, all served atop a bed of light and airy Jasmine rice. The Cajun Buerre Blanc had the familiar hint of the appropriate spices, but lacked the N'awlins zip I was anticipating.

When it came time to order our desserts our waiter explained the selections to us but neglected to present the one offering we had been waiting for, The Triple Layer Chocolate Pate with Raspberry Coulis. When asked if that particular selection might not be available on this night, he said indeed it was and apologized for forgetting to mention it. We ordered it and the Warm Pecan Praline with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. While the Pecan was excellent, moist and not overpoweringly sugary, The Pate must have been a sore spot for our waiter as it never arrived. When we inquired about it, the waiter insisted that we'd never ordered it.

Overall my experience with this Ft. Myers institution was a romantic evening with soft music and an old world ambiance that is deserving of its accolades. The Southern charm of the service and cuisine coupled with the view of the courtyard, with its mini waterfall and white accent lighting make for a relaxed and pleasant dining experience. Were it not for the Southern Sampler dish and the interesting adventure with our dessert, this restaurant would have acquired a four Star rating. Unfortunately with these two glaring inconsistencies on this particular night, I had to deduct a half star. Even so, I have no problem adding them to my Recommended Restaurants list.

2122 Second St.
Fort Myers, FL
239-322-2065

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