Bice 4/12/08

Rating: ****1/2
An Open Table Restaurant

Stepping into this restaurant for the first time gives one the feeling that you are in Naples, Italy rather than Naples, Florida. Authenticity is the word here, and as my partner and I are both of Italian decent, we appreciated the effort. Italian speaking waiters, clad in dinner jackets and ties and offering 'Buon Giornos' or 'Buona Serras' immediately set the tone at this elegant, upscale eatery.

Offering al fresco dining, as well as an intimate lounge, the restaurant's decor is soft creams and dark cherry woods combined with two expansive mirrors covering the back wall of the rear alcove. There is a contemporary feel to the dining room, with its open, airy clean lines and upholstered dining chairs, yet the space still offers patrons a hint of old world elegance. On this night, wonderful ambiance was also set by the melodic tones of two live classical guitarists playing in the lounge area, supplying a real Mediterranean atmosphere and making the authentic Italian dining experience all the more complete. (Bice needs to be careful with its music presentations. We have heard from other patrons of the restaurant that some nights, the music performed can actually take away from the elegant feel.) Strict attention to detail has been paid in order to heighten the diners overall aesthetic experience, and our hopes that the meal would be equal to the surroundings were high. As I have stated in other reviews, 'You can't eat the decor'. In the case of Bice, my expectations were exceeded.

Tables were elegantly and impeccably set, yet I could have done without the breadsticks in a paper wrapper. While maybe cute to some, for me, it diminished the overall statement made by the perfect place settings. However, this would come to be one of my only negative observations on this night.

The restaurant has a good selection of wines, both by the bottle and by the glass, for those who like a little 'vino' with their meal. Also offered every night from 5pm-6pm, is a "First Seating." A 3 course, limited menu dinner, which consists of salad or soup, choice of 4 entrees and dessert, all for a very reasonable $25.00 per person (not including tax and gratuity). The menu changes seasonally and on this particular evening in April, we chose from the 'Springtime 08' menu.

My partner and I started off our dinner with Timballo di Polenta e Fromagia di Capra Avolto nella Verza, goat cheese and polenta flan wrapped in savoy cabbage ($14), Calamari, Gamberi, Zucchine e Funghi Fritti con Salsa di Pomadoro Piccante, crispy flash fried calamari, prawns, zucchini and mushrooms, served with a spicy tomato sauce ($18), and Capesante di Manzo con Cestino di Parmigiano e Rucola al Profumo di Tartufo e Senape, seared scallops with vegetable sticks in saffron sauce. ($18)

The Polenta was perfectly cooked and creatively presented as one would expect flan to be served. The three unique textures and contrasting flavors of the tart, creamy goat cheese, the smooth graininess of the nutty polenta and the crisp freshness of the cabbage, combined to give the mouth a memorable sensory experience.

The genius of our next dish was that each element and ingredient stood out on its own. The calamari was tender, with no hint of oiliness with the batter flaky and light. The button mushrooms were meaty and the prawns were done expertly, neither under nor overdone. The highlight of this dish though, was the tomato sauce. I must explain that my partner, who is full blooded Italian, having grown up with "Grandma's recipe" and now his own, is extremely picky when it comes to sauce, or as we call it 'gravy'. To hear him state that he would eat the sauce served with this selection by itself, as if a tomato soup, is high praise indeed. It has all the savory components that a true Italian looks for and was by far the most 'close to home' we have both tasted in some time. All we can say Chef Luotti is, "Bellisima!"

Rounding out our appetizers were the scallops. Again, seafood expertly cooked (no knife needed here), these were served with a light,beautifully bright yellow sauce, over a bed of julienned zucchini, summer squash and carrots. All ingredients working in concert to enhance the scallops, while never detracting from the star of the dish.

We shared a large Caesar salad that was brought out and separated tableside by our server who expertly mastered a one handed serving technique that we have not seen in years. Further evidence that this restaurant is paying close attention to every detail of its guest's dining experience.

For entrees we ordered Petto di Pollo Fracito ai Funghi e Pancetta in Salsa al Porto e Flan di Asparagi, roasted chicken breast filled with mushrooms and bacon in a port wine sauce and served with an asparagus flan, ($26) and Crespelle Gratinate al Forno in Salsa di Timo e Porri, oven baked butternut squash crepes with a leek and thyme sauce ($22).

The inverted custard cup presentation of the asparagus flan floating in a sea of port sauce, combined with the almost lamb like presentation of chicken breast (bone standing tall), was very creative and had our mouths watering instantly. The flan was light with a souffle consistancy. The chicken was served with very crispy skin reminiscent of a Peking Duck dish, with the meat moist and juicy. Filled with bits of bacon and tender mushrooms, it was apparent that the breast had been seared in bacon fat before being roasted. The smokey pork flavor joined with the tartness of the port wine reduction make a winning combination. This dish was excellent.

Not to be outdone, the crepes were served as a double triangle atop deep fried zucchini, squash and carrot sticks. I must point out here that an offering of the same spring themed vegetables was present throughout all the dishes we were served, yet not once was the presentation drab or repetitious. The leek-thyme puree was a terrific creation and with a drizzle of olive oil and crushed black pepper, this dish was amazing.

For dessert we ordered carpaccio d'Ananas, marinated pineapple carpacio served with a lemon sorbet ($9) and Torta Soffice di Mele della Nonna con Passata di Mango e Gelato ($8), warm classic apple tart with puree of fresh mango and vanilla ice cream. A wonderful tea chest was offered with Harney and Sons teas, and my partner had a glass of 20 yr old Tawny Port ($10) and a double espresso.

The Apple Tart was a beautifully delivered dish of comfort food that was kicked up by the addition of the fresh mango puree. The standout though, was the carpaccio. For those willing to take a risk with their palate, this dessert is not to be missed. On the Specials menu, this brilliant creation by Chef Monica Luotti is a 'one of a kind' experience. Paper thin slices of pineapple in a star anise and clove sauce was simply incredible. Serving it with the lemon gelato is inspired, as after each bite, the gelato serves to cleanse the palate, enabling each subsequent bite of this dessert to be as exciting as the first. Bravo!

Overall, this was a night of near culinary perfection. As reviwers, it is more common than not, to have some of the restaurants we visit shine in one aspect of a meal, only to be mediocre in other parts. There are however a few gems that get it all right. On this night, Bice was one of the gems. The restaurant was packed with diners, yet service was impeccable from start to finish. Each ingredient of every dish stood out on its own and all were without flaw. We congratulate Executive Chef Luotti, Manager Salvatore Sinzieri and their staff for garnering Gourmet Girl Magazine's 4^½ Star rating. It is well deserved and Bice easily joins our list of Recommended Restaurants.

Bice Ristorante
300 5th Avenue
Naples, Florida
239-262-4044
www.bicenaples.com

The Sandy Butler

***1/2

Upon entering the Sandy Butler restaurant, you are not quite sure what to expect. After all, a restaurant alongside a market? Ok, I thought, this would be a Casual Spotlight, not a full blown fine dining review. Imagine my surprise when an elegant dining room presented itself, with a semi-alfresco Gazebo Room also offerered. I quickly retrieved my larger review notebook. A full length glass wall separates the two spaces, and I came to understand that all the fresh ingredients prepared by Executive Chef Philippe Arlandis come from the market daily. Somehow, the owners of this dual personality establishment have managed to keep both entities unique and separate unto themselves.

We were met with a friendly staff wishing us a good evening and opted to sit in the Gazebo Room. Situated mere feet from San Carlos Blvd., busy with those coming to and from Ft. Myers Beach, one would immediately assume that outside dining here would include traffic noise and exhaust fumes. Quite the contrary. An ingenious use of large plantation shutters adorn the windows, allowing just enough outside atmosphere to justify the 'semi alfresco' moniker, yet quite efficiently subdue the sound of the busy roadway, with the only 'fumes' being the aromas of the tantalizing looking dishes passing us on their way to other tables. Walls adorned with alternating orchids and ornamental shore grasses, with black vases fillled with Amaryllis on the tables lend a touch of class, while still reminding one that this is beach country. In a unique twist, the draping of the napkins over the sides of tables covered in floor length black tablecloths, differed slightly from their placement in the indoor dining room, showing an attention to the small details that make for a memorable dining experience.

We started the evening with Classical French Onion Soup ($5), Morroccan Lamb Stew ($4) and a traditional Crab Cake ($12), pan seared and topped with a Chipolte aoili. In most modern day restaurants French Onion has been 'Americanized' and is usually served with mozzarella or any number of substitute cheeses and always seems laden with overpowering saltiness. Not so at Sandy Butler. The chef has remained true to his French heritage and served the soup, abundant with sweet onion flavor, in its traditional form, topped with gruyere and swiss, as the original recipe was intended. Sweet and savory at once, the only misstep in this large portion was that the bay leaf had not been removed.

Don't be deceived by the chicken noodle appearance of the Lamb Stew. The blending of lamb, chicken and chick peas, with noodles served al dente and seasoned with cumin, nutmeg and cinnamon, hint at the chef's Algerian origins. My regret with this dish was that I was anticipating more than a hint, and while delicious, the stew was a bit too subtle and I would have preferred a much stronger use of the spices.

While an offering on just about every menu in SWFL, the Crab Cake is one of the best versions I have encountered. Seared perfectly crispy outside, this is quite the opposite of most you can get elsewhere. Instead of the norm, where you are served a few pieces of crab encased in an abundance of breading, this selection spares the breading almost completely and you are presented with a cake packed with large peices of the sweet crustation. The chipolte adds just the right bit of zip to make it interesting, but Chef Philippe wisely lets the crab do all the talking.

With the our appetizers and soups being well done yet nothing spectacular, I was ill prepared for the excellence of the entrees! Our selections on this night were the Cheese & Spinach Ravioli served swimming in a creamy mushroom ragout ($15) and the 14oz Pork Chop, bone-in center cut and served with Stilton Cheese and port glaze ($26). Remove from your mind any preconceived notions of what is your typical ravioli offering. Whlie most ravioli dishes offer you a thick pasta mound filled with cheese in a thin sauce, these were just the opposite. Marvelously, almost translucent, paper thin pasta envelopes arrived filled alternately with tasty and delicately seasoned spinach and cheese. A healthy portion of them were served with a luxuriously thick and buttery smooth ragout, with no loss for meaty pieces of mushroom and the sauce had the perfect hint of wine. Bravo!

The Pork Chop is brilliant. Seared perfectly moist and tender, the combination of the pungent sharpness brought by the Stilton, with the aged sweetness of the port glaze puts this dish over the top. This is an 'outside the box' use of flavors, excellently proportioned, and serves to wake the palate by complimenting and enhancing the smokiness of the pork. The vegetables were steamed bright and crisp, and smartly, very lightly seasoned, so as not to throw off the balance of the dish. Presentation was also wonderful with the scalloped potatoes fanned around the chop which sat centerstage on the plate.

A nice touch is the periodic appearence of the chef in the dining room, stopping by each table to check on the progress of each meal while sometimes explaining to curious diners what went into the creation of their particular dish.

Desserts consisted of Pineapple Upside Ddown Cake with a Rum Coconut sauce ($7) and a Creme Brulee Trio ($9). The cake was extremely moist, almost pudding like, and the freshness of the tender pineapple married with the delicate rum coconut sauce make this a trip to the islands on a plate.

The trio is a well thought out offering. First up was my partner's favorite, the Chocolate & Cayenne. Rich cocoa flavor delicately laced with subtle heat from the cayenne, brought me thoughts of Motechuhzoma, the ancient Aztec chieftan, who was served thousands of jars of foaming chocolate laden with the spice. Next up was was my personal favorite, the Candied Ginger, which served to be a perfect combination of flavors and added an Asian twist. Last was the Gran Marnier, with its essence of the orange liquor bringing us back from our 'world tour' of Brulee to our home here in Florida.

In summary, I would have to say that this was a fine dining experience. Chef Philippe is doing wonderful things in this unique setting. There were some lapses in attention to detail, but overall you would be well served to experience this restaurant's unique ambiance. The market closes at 8pm each night, so if you are dining late, be sure to visit the market first so as not to miss the culinary adventure waiting just on the other side of the glass. Were it not for the few inconsistancies on this night I would gladly have given this restaurant four stars, but have no problem handing out a rating of ***½ and have added them to my list of Recommended Restaurants.

The Sandy Butler
Gourmet Market & Restaurant
17650 San Carlos Blvd., Fort Myers
239-482-6765
www.SandyButler.com

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Roy's - Bonita Springs

****

Arriving over an hour early, we were prepared to wait at the bar for our reservation at this popular eatery located in Bonita Springs. However, with a warm ‘Aloha’, the smiling hostess immediately escorted us to our table. Upon entering, you are met with warm dark walls, tastefully decorated with minimalist tropical touches. A 3-D orchid wall hanging greets you when you enter and the rest of the space gives one a hint of the South Pacific.

We were led past one of the unique features of this restaurant, a special dining area located at the front of the restaurant. Beautiful large pane windows and doors separate it from the rest of the space and it was explained that this warmly lit alcove is available during regular dining hours, as well as private functions. We made our way to our table, passing both the bar with it’s simple pendant lights and the bustling open kitchen, and entered a large dining area with half moon banquettes scattered throughout. Warm and inviting, they offer discreet seclusion with their high backs and views of the open seating area offset with plantation sized slatted windows. The subtle Hawaiian art, woven menu jackets and soft native music in the background make a perfect setting for an evening in the ‘islands.’

Our server presented us with the menus and upon discovering that this was our first visit to Roy’s, provided us with a brief history of the founder, explaining that Roy Yamaguchi’s heritage of both Japanese and Hawaiian descent was the inspiration for the direction of the cuisine, which would be described as Island-Asian fusion. She then gave us an overview of the restaurant taking time to explain how the menu is set up.

There is an interesting system in place whereby each night their menu has a selection of ‘Roy’s Classics,’ items on the menu since it’s 1988 Honolulu opening denoted by the letter ‘Y’ and the local Executive Chef-Partner’s daily specials. It must be noted here that Roy’s is a chain, now owned by parent company Outback, with restaurants located throughout the country.

However, unlike Outback’s signature restaurants, which are casual, Roy’s has remained at the more polished and high end of the restaurant spectrum. Smartly, more than enough menu latitude has been given to each chef, allowing his/her restaurant the ability to be unique to the local area in which it resides. As ‘first time’ patrons, recommendations were made in order to afford us the opportunity to experience the full feel of the cuisine. The attention to detail by the servers is noteworthy, from detailed explanations of the dishes, to the presentation of our napkins.

Roy’s has an excellent, if limited, wine list with most available by the glass. Also offered is a cocktail menu featuring Signature Roy’s Specialty drinks and traditional bar fare. My partner ordered the Roy’s Hawaiian Colada, served with a sprig of fresh mint, a unique twist of a familiar classic.

We started off with Roy’s Canoe Appetizer for 2 ($26). This dish was described as a dim sum of sorts, consisting of Coconut Shrimp, Wood Grilled Szechwan Spiced Baby Back Ribs, Beef, Bleu Cheese and Spinach Tortellini, Char Sui Roasted Chicken Spring Rolls and Dragon Rolls.

Presented in a pure white dish, appropriately shaped like a canoe, it is a wonderful stage for the various colors and textures. The shrimp is served with a Japanese Namasu & Mango Sweet and Sour dipping sauce. The ‘falling off the bone ribs’ combines subtle woodsy flavors with just the right amount of Szechwan spices. They were not greasy or ‘sauce sloppy’ as one would typically associate with ribs.

Spring rolls are one of my favorites and these were excellent. The heat in the roll was offset nicely with the sweetness of pineapple and then given a surprising little extra kick from the Dragon Sauce.

The tortellinis were tightly packed with beef and spinach then bathed in natural butter. A delicate blend of flavors. Finally, the Dragon Roll, filled with tuna, sushi rice, avocado, scallion and a dollop of aioli, was a fitting end to our appetizer. Due to the heat of the Dragon Roll’s dipping sauce, I would recommend you save this for last so as not to overwork the tastebuds prematurely and miss the flavors of the other items in the dish. The ‘Canoe’ is a perfect way to start off your dining experience.

Deferring to the server’s suggestion we ordered the Maui Wowie Shrimp Salad, a Roy’s Classic ($11), complete with capers, onions, avocado slices, Feta cheese topped with a Caper Lime vinaigrette. The word that immediately pops into mind when recalling this dish is refreshing. It was as if I had a palate cleansing Intermezzo! No knife needed here as each piece was sized perfectly. The extreme freshness of all the ingredients delicately stripped my tastebuds of the previous flavors and left my mouth feeling cleansed and ready for the next course.

For entrees, we chose the Tender Short Ribs of Beef braised in Red Wine, with Scalloped Potatoes and Whole Grain Mustard reduction ($ 24), and Roy’s Classic Trio: Hibachi Grilled Salmon, served with a Citrus Ponzu sauce, Roy’s Original Blackened Island Ahi, served with a Spicy Soy Mustard Butter and Hawaiian Style Misoyaki Butterfish, with Braised Baby Bok Choy and a Lemon Ginger Soy Beurre Blanc, presented as three separate dishes in one presentation.($29)

The short ribs were melt in your mouth tender, with the mustard reduction adding just a hint of zip, but not overpoweringly so. The potatoes were cooked perfectly with soft centers and crispy outer edges. A very down to earth selection, prepared well. What it lacks in fanfare, it makes up for with the familiarity one expects from good meat and potatoes comfort food.

We started our flight of the Trio with the Salmon. Sliced thin and prepared well, it was what one would expect from a teriyaki entree and while unspectacular, it did not disappoint. Next up was the Blackened Ahi, seared expertly on the outside and served perfectly rare. Topped with delicately thin slices of shaved fresh ginger, I waited for the pop from the sauce described as ‘Spicy Soy Mustard,' but it never arrived. Nonetheless, the dish was excellent.

The star of this Trio, the Butterfish, actually deserves its own space here. It was absolutely marvelous. Just touch your fork to it and its freshness is apparent as it falls apart. To use the word ‘buttery’ to describe the sensation of putting this into your mouth is to do the dish an injustice. It was creamy smooth and the delicate flavors of the sauce made this a party in your mouth. Whether as a part of this trio, or ordered as a stand alone entree, this dish is a must. Bravo!

For desserts, we ordered the Pineapple-Upside Down Cake, served a la mode with Coconut ice cream and drizzled with a Mango, Strawberry and Kiwi sauce ($8) and the Puna Goat Cheese Cheesecake on a thin Graham Cracker with a Mango, Raspberry Drizzle($8).

Unfortunately the Upside Down Cake was very disappointing. The pineapple pieces were hard and inedible, the cake bland and tasteless and the burnt caramel taste of the sugars seemed to imply it had been left in the Salamander a touch too long. I had been told by others that this was one of their better signature desserts, and will chalk it up to just a bad night for this dish, which as with any restaurant, can happen on any given night.

The Cheesecake though is a decadent winner with a capital D! If you are not a lover of Goat Cheese, this is not the dish for you. If you do however, love goat cheese as I do, don’t miss a chance to partake in this lush, moist and wonderfully creative dessert. Personally, I would have preferred it served without the whipped cream on top, but once I removed it, I was in heaven.

As always, I make mention of the Tea Chest which arrived with an excellent selection of Novus teas.

Overall this was a wonderful dining experience with impeccably attentive, yet not overwhelmingly intrusive, service from a staff that is both well trained and extremely pleasant. This restaurant is doing all things well and Executive Chef Wade Lowe’s attention to detail is evident. I can easily give this restaurant a 4 Star rating and happily add this to my list of Recommended Restaurants.

Reservations are recommended.

26831 South Bay Dr. Suite 100,
Bonita Bay Promenade
Bonita Springs
239 498-7697

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The Veranda 2/26/2008

***1/2

Nestled in the midst of Downtown Fort Myers, the Veranda’s charisma was evident from the moment the valet opened the car door. His greeting, infused with humor that we actually had found the place, was a wonderful ‘ice breaker’ after driving through and around the numerous construction barriers of the ongoing downtown facelift in order to find this restaurant icon.

We entered into the lovely piano bar area and were greeted with warm dark woods, earthy tones, the Cruvinet, and open shelves lined with bottles of the crushed grape. It immediately set a tone of old world charm. The leaded glass windows and table filled alcove, backed by views of the lush courtyard with mature tropical flora, gives one the feel of being transported to an island oasis with no evidence that the restaurant is surround by office buildings on all sides.

We were led past the kitchen and tuxedo clad waiters, offering pleasantries and smiles, into the main dining room. Soft hued walls, covered with turn of the century paintings, uniquely placed at seated eye level with wall sconces up lighting the space, gives you the feel of walking into someone’s living room, which it indeed was when Manuel Gonzalez built the now adjoined homes that make up the restaurant in 1902.

Surprisingly, this restaurant's self description with words like ‘southern charm’ and ‘deep south’, had me expecting an antebellum plantation look. I was instead met with architecture reminiscent of New England, which was later confirmed when it was explained to us that all the materials were in fact shipped from there and then assembled here. We came to realize that the ‘southern charm’ was in fact in the overall attitude and demeanor of the wait staff and the construction of a decades old menu, filled with staple dishes that this restaurant has been serving for years.

We were seated in a lovely corner booth with an elegant table setting, affording us views of both the courtyard and the original stone hearth which is the focal point of the room. Warm whole wheat molasses bread and moist mini corn muffins were served with a delicious pepper jelly as our waiter explained in detail the evening’s specials.

The restaurant offers a fine choice of regular and vintage wines. The vintage list consists of wines ranging from $45 to $500. Those with less ability to partake of these exceptional wines will find they can order from a more than adequate selection on the regular list for between $35-$50.

We began with Escargot in Puff pastry with a Maytag Bleu Cheese sauce ($8.95), Southern Grit Cakes topped with Pepper Jack cheese alongside grilled Andouille sausage ($7.50) and Artichoke Fritters stuffed with Blue crab and served with a Béarnaise sauce ($8.50). The Escargot was cooked perfectly, moist and tender. The Bleu Cheese sauce, which delicately added to the flavor of the snails without overpowering them, had the long finish of a good full bodied wine. The pastry was flaky, although the base of the puff was a bit too thick and hard.

The Southern grit cake with its thin, crunchy crust and moist, almost creamy, center topped by the Pepper Jack cheese was a marvelous presentation. Chef Murray expertly balanced the heat from the cheese and slightly zesty flavor of the Andouille sausage with a sweet red bell pepper reduction.

The Artichoke Fritters were by far the most moist and succulent hearts I have had in some time. The fritter, with no hint of oiliness at all, steamed this vegetable tender inside it and when it was cut open, the juice actually flowed onto the plate. The combination of Blue Crab stuffing and Béarnaise sauce make this dish a winner.

No southern style meal would be complete without including Fried Green Tomatoes. The Veranda serves this item as a salad offering, with bits of ham, and tops it with a Bleu Cheese dressing ($7.25). Expecting a thick slab of tomato crusted with cornmeal, which is the traditional presentation of this item, it was instead served encased in a too thick doughy crust that made it hard to taste the tomato. Once I removed most of the crust and made my way to the tomato inside, the combination of the tomato, iceberg lettuce and bleu cheese was wonderful. A very small adjustment of either a thicker slice of tomato, or a little less dough would have made this dish a bigger hit.

For our entrees, we chose the Southern Sampler mixed grill of fresh fish, Gulf Shrimp and large Sea Scallops presented over a Proscuitto Cream Fettuccini ($33.95). The fish on this night was Mahi Mahi. For our second selection we ordered Chicken Orleans, a pan seared chicken breast topped with bay shrimp, crabmeat, arugala and a Cajun Buerre Blanc ($26.95). When the Southern Sampler arrived the presentation was impressive and when I touched my knife to the impeccably cooked scallop it actually sank in as if thru butter. If it’s possible to salivate while salivating, I must say I did so. Imagine my surprise when I put the first morsel into my mouth and my scallop tasted like steak! As did the Mahi Mahi and the shrimp. The shrimp also had a sour iodine taste that added to the already unappealing beef taste of the seafood. It was obvious to both myself and my partner, who loves steak, albeit only when he actually orders it, that this fish had been grilled on the same grill top that had also cooked beef. A huge Faux Pas in this reviewer's opinion, as most chefs have in their kitchens, one grill for fish and one for beef. The Proscuitto Fettuccini was cooked al dente as it should be, with little bits of the Italian ham throughout and was light and tasty, but could not save what otherwise should have been a delightful selection.

The Chicken Orleans was a good, if unspectacular, dish with a moist cutlet topped with the shrimp, crabmeat and arugala that played off of each other well. A side of tender spaghetti squash was a nice touch, all served atop a bed of light and airy Jasmine rice. The Cajun Buerre Blanc had the familiar hint of the appropriate spices, but lacked the N'awlins zip I was anticipating.

When it came time to order our desserts our waiter explained the selections to us but neglected to present the one offering we had been waiting for, The Triple Layer Chocolate Pate with Raspberry Coulis. When asked if that particular selection might not be available on this night, he said indeed it was and apologized for forgetting to mention it. We ordered it and the Warm Pecan Praline with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. While the Pecan was excellent, moist and not overpoweringly sugary, The Pate must have been a sore spot for our waiter as it never arrived. When we inquired about it, the waiter insisted that we'd never ordered it.

Overall my experience with this Ft. Myers institution was a romantic evening with soft music and an old world ambiance that is deserving of its accolades. The Southern charm of the service and cuisine coupled with the view of the courtyard, with its mini waterfall and white accent lighting make for a relaxed and pleasant dining experience. Were it not for the Southern Sampler dish and the interesting adventure with our dessert, this restaurant would have acquired a four Star rating. Unfortunately with these two glaring inconsistencies on this particular night, I had to deduct a half star. Even so, I have no problem adding them to my Recommended Restaurants list.

2122 Second St.
Fort Myers, FL
239-322-2065

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Triology 2/18/2008

**1/2
Update 3/11/2008: Trilogy has revamped its website.

In most cases, an 'A' for effort is commendable. Not so with restaurants. When it comes to quality dining, follow through and results are all that count. While Trilogy has all the ingredients to wow diners, on the night I visited them, the execution of its intent came up a bit short.

Opened in November, 2007, in the former Zoe’s location on 5th Avenue, Naples, the only vestige of its former life are the chandeliers which bring a contemporary flair to the otherwise elegant continental decor. Cool creams and subtle hues in the the dining area are accented in the background by the dark woods and a wall size mirror above the bar. Booths line both sides of the dining area with traditional tables down the center and alfresco dining out front.

Pleasant background music of old standards waft from the strategically placed grand piano with conversational undertones provided by the patrons, reminisent of an old James Bond movie. Holiday spheres hang from the ceiling, which in this reviewer's opinion detract, rather than add, to the old world feel of the rest of the dining room. Comfortable and smooth, the area is familiar and inviting, but let's face it, you can't eat the decor.

While sliding into my seat, to my chagrin, I came up with a handful of crumbs and other 'unidentified' (????). A dark stain on the white tablecloth marred an otherwise tasteful table setting.

For those of you who enjoy good wine, a large, albeit, pricey selection of wines, with a limited 1/2 bottle selection, are available. However, many are offered by the glass, should you choose not to order a bottle with dinner. Wine flights, tasting menus or wine pairings, are not offered.

Specials were not voiced by the wait staff, but were instead just pointed out on a slip-sheet into the menu. The menu is very limited, with a few key ingredients prepared in various ways. For example, escargot was used in a flatbread, as an appetizer and an entree. Also, you cannot go by the menu posted online on their website, or for that matter the menu you receive (particularly the dessert menu), as some of the selections are either not available or have been changed. I assume that since this restaurant is in its 'early' stages, the Chef is experimenting and adjusting the menu as he grows his restaurant to maturity. However, selections should be updated daily, in order for guests to have current versions of what is being offered.

Bread was brought to the table with a roasted tomato reduction, but we had to ask for butter, as the server failed to bring any.

I decided to open with the Wild Mushroom & Escargot Flatbread with Caramelized Onion and Peppercorn pan sauce ($12), the Crispy Calamari Toss with a Cherry Pepper, Garlic Buerre Noisette ($12) and the Wicked Shrimp with Gorgonzola cream and cilantro ($15). I need to mention here that, as is the standard, plates were brought to dish out the appetizers. One of the plates, unfortunately was overlooked by the server and arrived with caked-on food and had to be sent back for another.

The Flatbread description included a 'trilogy of cheeses', so I eagerly anticipated bubbling, stretching cheese when it was presented. I was disappointed, as that was not the case. It was served at room temperature, with the cheese hard and stiff. While I could taste the escargot, this dish was for the most part, rather bland. I assume that had it been served piping hot, the cheeses would have added their delicate flavor to the dish. The Calamari was slightly greasy and a bit overdone, while the sauce did have the zip and tastiness you would expect from the cherry peppers. The Wicked Shrimp however was a delight, cooked to perfection with just the right amount of heat and creaminess from a wonderful Gorgonzola sauce.

I ordered the French Style Three Onion Soup and, with the finished appetizer plates still on the table, the server brought out the soup, apologized for bringing it out too early (we had asked the waiter to take his time with the courses), only to simply leave it in the midst of the appetizer plates, neglecting to clear them from the table. The soup was laden with what I assume was a balsamic type reduction that completely overpowered the dish and the natural sweetness I had anticipated from the trio of onions.

For our main course, my partner and I ordered the Hickory Smoked Duck Breast with crisp Potato Pancake and Vanilla Bean & Woodford Demi ($25), and Alaskan Volcano Halibut with Enoki Mushrooms and Oyster Cream sauce ($34). The waiter explained that the Chef recommended the duck be ordered medium rare. Agreeing, we did so. When the duck arrived the aroma from the Vanilla Bean sauce was the first to hit the senses. However, the duck was served overcooked, tough and chewy, I love duck, but frankly, the sauce was so overpowering, I was not sure if I was eating duck, beef or pork. The Potato Pancake however was delicious, with a wonderfully thin crust and smooth creamy center. Steamed vegetables were also served, but were tasteless and added nothing to the dish. Give the kitchen kudos for creativity, but in my opinion, the combination of duck and vanilla did not fare well together and this dish is a flop.

The Halibut however, was cooked perfectly. Light, fresh and flaky and topped with a delicate Hoisin aioli cream, the combination of the Enoki mushrooms and smooth and buttery Oyster sauce were marvelous. Surprisingly, the rice was served plain and dry while the Asian soy flavor of the stir fried vegetables threw the Yin/Yang of this dish out of whack. The flavors of the Halibut just did not marry well with the seasoning used on the vegetables.

As in previous reviews, I have mentioned my thoughts on a tea chest. While credit is given to Trilogy for having one, it arrived half empty, with many slots having no selection at all. Also unfortunate was the fact that the tea cup delivered to the table arrived with more caked on food and had to be sent back for another.

The one bright spot of the night was the desserts. We ordered the Limoncello Flute, Lemon Gelato Swirled with Limoncello ($12) and the Chocolate Trilogy, a Dark, Milk and White Chocolate Mousse ($10). The Flute was delicate in flavors and refreshing, although I could have done without the overabundance of granulated sugar crystals, but that is a personal preference, as some may like the contrast of the smooth gelato against the crunch of the sugar. The Chocolate Trilogy was a dream, beautifully presented, light and airy atop a thin wafer with chocolate curls on top.

One thing that should be mentioned. Since it is near the beach, and Naples is a resort town, some forethought was given to dress code and Trilogy has a variety of Tommy Bahama shirts available for those who stop in after a day in the sun and are possibly underdressed for the occasion.

Overall, Trilogy needs to pay much more attention to details, as exampled in the dirty dishes, tablecloth, temperature of the dishes served, tea chest and such. I will give Chef Ross and his staff the benefit of the doubt and will attribute the kinks to growing pains in this newly established Naples destination and check back in a few months to see how this restaurant has fared.

This reviewer has no problem paying a little more for stellar service and cuisine, but if Trilogy is to charge its high prices, based upon where they are located and the restaurants that surround them, they are going to have to deliver, not only on the plate, but also when it comes to the service and attention to detail. On this particular night, Trilogy did not deliver and I can't add them to my list of 'Recommended Restaurants' yet. Let's hope that a future visit to this restaurant, which abounds with unlimited potential, will change my opinion.

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Cru 2/07/2008

****1/2
Update 3/18/2008: Cru is now serving lunch.

Alfresco, cozy booth, traditional table, sheik bar or Chef's table, Cru has them all. We arrived a bit earlier than our reservation, but were seated immediately, the hostess leading us past the Chef's table set impeccably on the perimeter of the open kitchen. All along the way, as we passed staff, we were greeted with smiles and welcoming words to have a fine dining experience.

Cuban art and rich red walls envelop you as you enter the dining area. Plush booths with privacy drapes and Chihuly style pendant lights line the back wall of this intoxicating space. Strategically placed mirrors reflect the light back into the room and add to the sexy feel of this hot spot in Ft. Myers.

The bar is sleek and trendy incorporating steel, blacks, whites and simple lines with a tasteful combination of low and high bar tables. The decor is the stage, but the stars of the show are the food and the service.

Seated in a cozy booth affords one an opportunity to see the kitchen at work and experience Cru's total affect on its diners. The adventurous palate has many choices to tempt and satisfy itself with Executive Chef Brian Roland's creative and unexpected combinations of textures and flavors. One can opt for the 'a la carte' menu or the Chef's Tasting ($50.00), with wine pairing ($75.00). These are sample prices and you should check their daily menu for specific Tasting offerings.

For those who love the grape, the wine list is world class and offers up a fine selection of excellent choices. On this night I chose to order from the 'a la carte' menu and forego the wine, concentrating on the food.

To my surprise Chef Roland and his Pastry Chef came to our table to greet us and brought a palate cleansing gazpacho Amuse served in a sake size cup with instructions to 'throw it back like a shot!' Crisp and light with none of the acidity associated with a tomato base, it was refreshing and woke up the tastebuds.

Scallop ($6) with Serrano Ham and roasted fennel was plump, juicy and delicately seared. The saltiness of the ham married perfectly with the licorice and the natural sweetness of the scallop. Cooked to perfection, you won't go wrong with this dish.

Spicy crab roll ($9.50) was filled with moist crab and a combination of sriracha and sweet teriyaki sauce. The spiciness was hidden at first and gradually permeated the mouth, not too hot, but just enough heat to add interest.

The Manchego filled Bonzi Roll ($8.50) with a drizzling of Cru steak sauce teased the senses. These rolls are a must try, but the best by far were the Kobe meatballs ($8/4pc) served with goat cheese ravioli, that have this reviewer's mouth watering just thinking about them. Two decadent flavors that were a perfect finish to our appetizers.

The Sea Bass ($27) with its delicate crust, came floating like an island amidst orzo 'pasta fagiole' seasoned with prosciutto, escarole and Las Brisas. First to hit the senses was the amazing bouquet of the luxurious blends of spices from the fiagole, only to then be outdone by the taste. My only regret was that it wasn't served with a spoon to capture every last morsel. This dish is anything but peasant food.

The Pork Porterhouse ($20) is genius! Creamed leeks bring the sweetness that traditional chefs create with apples. This is the most succulent pork I've had in years. Press your knife and you will see the juices flow freely from this cooked to perfection 'chop.' The Grit Cake with chorizo in and of itself was delicious, delicately crunchy outside with a moist and falvorful inside, but topping it with the Raisin Jam made it sing.

A side of signature Truffle Fries ($9) couldn't be passed up. Incredibly thin fries with a delicate hint of white truffle oil and then sprinkled with cheese. They came with a dipping sauce, but truthfully, these are addictive just as they are.

If you are a chocolate lover, do not miss the opportunity to partake of a truffle flight ($7.50/4). Whether you are a white, milk or dark chocolate lover there is a truffle for you. However, there are two that stand apart from the rest, Chocolate Pate and Xocoati. The pate is an indulgence that warrants the full attention of your senses and the Xocoati, with its hint of chili, evokes images of ancient Mexico.

Superb fare aside, I must address the impeccable service. From the moment you enter Cru the staff makes you feel special. Complimentary champagne, chefs' greetings and insight into the menu offerings, coupled with meticulous attention to your every need add to this dining experience without 'smothering' you.

Having dined in some of the top restaurants in New York, Chicago and numerous cities across the country, I can truly say that Cru can hold its own with the best of them. Keep your eye on Brian Roland, his star is quickly rising and you'll want to be there when it reaches its apex! Cru is a must for the discerning diner and is a Recommended Restaurant.

'Lush wines And pure food'

Bell Tower Shops
Fort Myers
239-466-3663

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